Starting problems - Superlight 1.6 K Series - W reg

[MikeGF]

Hi Everyone

Bit of a slight problem with the Superlight (1.6K, W reg, 20k miles)

Normally, it starts on the button! I press the starter button and it fires up straight away, no throttle needed, it shouts into life

However, past couple of weeks starting has become an issue. When I press the button now, it fires & starts, then after about .5 second it cuts out. Pressing the starter button again requires pumping the throttle to "catch it" then rev a few times till it settles down after being a bit lumpy.

Runs absoloutly fine! even when warm, the problem occurrs.

I've searched BlatChat (but not a member) and there are a million answers, I replaced the spark plugs, just in case and no joy.

So before I start replacing everything, any suggestions, is it a TADT problem with a quick fix? James Whiting may be my next stop, I am a fool with a spanner!!

Got the MOT tomorrow, bit worried

Cheers
MikeGF

[Steve-B]

are the battery in your pipper failing? a common problem is if you don't get the immoboliser disabled, your car will run for 5 seconds then turn off. TADTS if you've got a Rover engine, which you do.

have you replaced your battery in the pipper recently? perhaps knocked something onto the ECU/wiring area that's popped a pin in your loom slightly not right seating?

[Chris71]

Does sound like an immobiliser issue, that's what mine does when I forget to disable the security system before starting.

[MikeGF]

Thanks Steve and Chris, much appreciated. I haven't actually changed the pipper battery in over 2 years since I had the car, so I will do that first, fingers crossed..

Could it be an immobiliser issue though even though it does (with a bit of throtthle pumping) start eventually? I only turn the immobiliser off once, then start it - eventually and it actually runs for about 0.5 secs, not 5 seconds, it's like it fires, starts and cuts straight out. Not doubting your wisdom & knowledge, just trying to understand cars a bit more!!

even my mate, with a 7 is stumped..

Again, thanks for your replies - the bleedin no. plates just fallen off again, so I better make sure that's on for tomorrow!

Cheers
MikeGF

Edited by MikeGF on Friday 9th July 17:30

[chris_speed]

I've had a similar problem, and I traced it back to a bad connection from the distributor cap to the coil. Good luck whatever it is.

[mickrick]

Get some 3M plastic grippy velcro stuff for your plate.
Soory I can't help with your start problem.

[redmire]

Ask in the garage you are getting it Mot'd at....

Goodluck with the mot!

Mike.

[BertBert]

I don't think it is an immobiliser problem. That wouldn't let it start again.

It sounds more ignition related. Poor connections/earths (yuk), throttle pot, crank sensor. Something odd with the fuel feed?

Bert

[Yellow 7]

Does anyone else have to endure an Ad for 'whatever' on Chrisspeeds posting here?

[redmire]

Yes!...I do, not sure why??

Mike.

[Incorrigible]

I don't "interact" with the washing up at home so why they think I might want to do it on the internet is beyond me

Your starting problem sounds like the IACV to me TADTS

[Red Seven]

Incorrigible said:

Your starting problem sounds like the IACV to me TADTS

Yes, I'd agree with that! It's also possible that the ECU needs to be reset (so that it remembers the bounds of the throttle pot).
It's also possible that, on starting, the battery voltage is dropping lower than the voltage that the ECU requires to "remember" the TPS bounds, but this reduced voltage may not actually be the battery, but the battery or chassis earth connections.

[MikeGF]

Well, passed the MOT with only 2 little advisories which I will sort before my next rackday.

Regarding the starting proble, they spent 20 mins looking at the garage and couldn't find it! So the search continues.

I changed the battery in the pipper for the alarm but no joy. However, when I went to start it saturday, there was a lot of clicking. It was the clicking sound the immobiliser when you turn it off (sounds a bit like indicator noise in a normal car). It clicked loads fo times, then after turning the cut off switch on and off it clicked some more then was fine. Still not starting right though. The clicking was, I believe, coming from the immobiliser, I looked under the steering wheel into the footwell, and it was at the top right at the back just on the firewall behind the cut off switch wiring, I touched it and could feel the clicking..

2 stupid questions from me;
1. What is the IACV common problem? I've never heard of that.
2. How do I reset the ECU?

Cheers
MikeGF

[Steve-B]

pip the alarm off
put key in, turn on but do not hit starter
push loud pedal in / out slowly 5 times
turn key off
remove from ignition
arm car

this has always worked for my 1.8VHPD K with an Emerald to reset...

[MikeGF]

Quick update from me..

ECU - Re-Set
IACV - Removed and cleaned, jesus that was a hard, fiddly, annoying job!!

Result? Still the same, absoloutly no change at all in the starting problems....



Don't know what to do next..

Any help?? I'm thinking a garage may be the next stop..

Cheers
MikeGF

Edited by MikeGF on Monday 19th July 11:54