Changing floors
Discussion
Hi all,
I'm looking at getting a Caterham atm, but all the cars I seem to like have the optional lowered floors, which I personally do not like.
How big a job is it to change the floors to standard? i.e. is it a chassis change? or affectively a bolt on job? I'm an autoelectrician by trade, and have a 2 post lift at home so no problem in the labour.. just want to know whats involved.
That is, unless someone knows of a nice SLR, or R300 that has standard floors and is actually a nice clean car...
Many Thanks
Dan
I'm looking at getting a Caterham atm, but all the cars I seem to like have the optional lowered floors, which I personally do not like.
How big a job is it to change the floors to standard? i.e. is it a chassis change? or affectively a bolt on job? I'm an autoelectrician by trade, and have a 2 post lift at home so no problem in the labour.. just want to know whats involved.
That is, unless someone knows of a nice SLR, or R300 that has standard floors and is actually a nice clean car...
Many Thanks
Dan
V. surprised that you should want to change from lowered floors as the lowered floors are considered desirable and likely to make the car more attractive when sold.
Yes you could change them to standard floors and I'm sure you can buy them from Arch, but you could probably find someone who is prepared to do a deal and swap floors with you.
The job involves removing the seats and a lot of drilling out of pop rivets and re-riveting and a car lift will make this much easier.
What is it you do not like about the low floors? If it's simply that you're not very tall and want to sit higher I'd suggest raising the seat off the floor on blocks or similar. It would be much easier and cheaper and retain the "attractiveness" of the lowered floor for re-sale.
Yes you could change them to standard floors and I'm sure you can buy them from Arch, but you could probably find someone who is prepared to do a deal and swap floors with you.
The job involves removing the seats and a lot of drilling out of pop rivets and re-riveting and a car lift will make this much easier.
What is it you do not like about the low floors? If it's simply that you're not very tall and want to sit higher I'd suggest raising the seat off the floor on blocks or similar. It would be much easier and cheaper and retain the "attractiveness" of the lowered floor for re-sale.
Like what 'e said above. 
Lots of drilling and riveting.
I've never got my head around the lowered floor thing either. You can see it from a side view of the car, and I personaly think it's ugly.
I'm 5'11" and never had a problem with a standard floor, but I did have tillets.
It's probably only considered more "desirable" in the sheeplike wisdom of BC.
Lots of drilling and riveting.I've never got my head around the lowered floor thing either. You can see it from a side view of the car, and I personaly think it's ugly.
I'm 5'11" and never had a problem with a standard floor, but I did have tillets.
It's probably only considered more "desirable" in the sheeplike wisdom of BC.
I'd make up your own mind if you need or want a lowered floor.
If you intend to do track days or compete then try sitting in a standard floor car with a helmet on and see how high your head is relative to the cage or roll bar. Basically you want your head well under the top level of the bar or cage.
I had a lowered floor and tillets in my blackbird and thought the driving position was perfect. My new to me slr has a flat standard floor and my head sticks out of the top of the slr cage so a lowered floor is a must for me unless I change the tillets for a bag seat perhaps.
If you believe what you read in EVO they have commented how much better the lowered floor is as it gets you more in the car rather than sitting on it but perhaps they just read it on tinternet and just repeated it!
I can't see the look of the car is changed that much unless you spend all day on the floor next to it rather than driving it.
Hope you buy it and enjoy preferably on track as much as you can.
Will
If you intend to do track days or compete then try sitting in a standard floor car with a helmet on and see how high your head is relative to the cage or roll bar. Basically you want your head well under the top level of the bar or cage.
I had a lowered floor and tillets in my blackbird and thought the driving position was perfect. My new to me slr has a flat standard floor and my head sticks out of the top of the slr cage so a lowered floor is a must for me unless I change the tillets for a bag seat perhaps.
If you believe what you read in EVO they have commented how much better the lowered floor is as it gets you more in the car rather than sitting on it but perhaps they just read it on tinternet and just repeated it!
I can't see the look of the car is changed that much unless you spend all day on the floor next to it rather than driving it.
Hope you buy it and enjoy preferably on track as much as you can.
Will
There's actually a very good little article about this subject in Lowflying this month. If you know a club member it might be worth having a look at it. It also makes a valid point that the 5cm is measured from the the plane of where the ground would be in the car was resting upside down on its rollbar and nose cone.
I went lowered floor so that I could see through the glassy bit of the windscreen. At 6'3" it became obvious that the standard floor had me looking through the windscreen surround, or somewhere very close to it.
I went lowered floor so that I could see through the glassy bit of the windscreen. At 6'3" it became obvious that the standard floor had me looking through the windscreen surround, or somewhere very close to it.
I think the lowered floor is stronger than the standard floor. If you are heavy of weight like myself, the standard floor tends to bend. At least that has been my experience as after I had my first service I was told that the floor had deformed so I fitted lowered ones and no more problem. Also being 6' 1" with a long body and relatively short legs I found my eyeline to be right on the top of the windscreen and my knees rubbed on the steering wheel so those problems have now also be rectified. Wish I chosen them in the first place when I ordered the car but one lives and learns.
Edited by Smollet on Thursday 8th July 10:13
when we took our SV to Oz in 2006, the CAMS racing rules defined the racing safety line from FIA bar TDC to TDC on the nosecone vs. height and i just passed as I am 6ft and 6ft2 with helmet on. recall that your safety is part of the calculation here, not for connivence but safety the FF's exist.
in 2008 they made the rules 3cm clearance and i got the lowered floors panels for both sides. 2 weekends work as had to borrow a garage, there are 265 stainless rivets / side that have to be drilled out. then you have to use a nibbler tool as chasis differ. then use Silkaflex sealant, present new floor and hold it semi into place as you re-rivet 265 times.
it is not a hard job, but it does take some real time. my wife absolutely hates our car now for getting in/out but it has improved into a more layed back seating position. also gave me a 2-3 mph gain with windscreen off as i sit back and lower now.
i really am of 2 minds on them -- completely disagree with only doing 1 side however.
apologies for my drifting reply...
in 2008 they made the rules 3cm clearance and i got the lowered floors panels for both sides. 2 weekends work as had to borrow a garage, there are 265 stainless rivets / side that have to be drilled out. then you have to use a nibbler tool as chasis differ. then use Silkaflex sealant, present new floor and hold it semi into place as you re-rivet 265 times.
it is not a hard job, but it does take some real time. my wife absolutely hates our car now for getting in/out but it has improved into a more layed back seating position. also gave me a 2-3 mph gain with windscreen off as i sit back and lower now.
i really am of 2 minds on them -- completely disagree with only doing 1 side however.
apologies for my drifting reply...
I prefer the "normal" floor too - gives you slightly better viewing position for countr runs.
We have lowered floor x 2, passenger already raised, but just by using spacers on the seat runner. Was easy to do, no riviting / metalwork, and improved eye level for the passenger. Next step drivers seat, bu every time one of us gets it out the garage, it comes back covered in flies and needs cleaning, not spannering =)
We have lowered floor x 2, passenger already raised, but just by using spacers on the seat runner. Was easy to do, no riviting / metalwork, and improved eye level for the passenger. Next step drivers seat, bu every time one of us gets it out the garage, it comes back covered in flies and needs cleaning, not spannering =)
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