6 spd Bellhousing to K : engine bolts

[fergus]

Although I've just taken this apart (albeit in a rush), to assist reassembly, can someone give me guidance on the following:

1) engine is out of car, gearbox is in car. How easy it is to relocate the input shaft of the g/box on the spigot bearing without damaging the spigot? Any tips for this?

2) There are 6 bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine, can anyone recall which bolts goes where? There are 3 different sized pairs. These are all mounted from the bulkhead side of the bellhousing, as opposed to the engine side if I recall correctly?

3) Is it easiest to fit the NS engine mount and fit the engine to the chassis prior to fitting the alternator? I removed the engine with the alternator and DS pump attached to the engine, but both engine mounts removed....

[Red Seven]

fergus said:

1) engine is out of car, gearbox is in car. How easy it is to relocate the input shaft of the g/box on the spigot bearing without damaging the spigot? Any tips for this?

If you've had the clutch apart, make sure that it is aligned correctly. (I've got an old gearbox input shaft that I use)
Make sure that the engine is offered to the gearbox as squarely as possible. It helps to have the gearbox supported by a trolly jack that can be lifted or lowered and pulled side to side.
To get the initial alignment, I have a couple of bits of M12 threaded rod that I screw through the lugs in the block into the bell housing so that I can then jiggle the engine and gearbox to shuffle them together whilst I get the top and bottom fixings started.
If it feels like the splines of the input shaft are not aligning with the clutch plate, then it can help to put the gearbox into gear and turn the rear whels to turn the input shaft (however, it'll normally slot in easier if the'box is in neutral).

fergus said:

2) There are 6 bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine, can anyone recall which bolts goes where? There are 3 different sized pairs. These are all mounted from the bulkhead side of the bellhousing, as opposed to the engine side if I recall correctly?

From memory, two M8 cap heads go in from the back, and screw into the back of the sump pan. The two shorter M12 pins go through the top of the bell housing into the block.
the two longer M12 pins go throuh the lugs at the bottom edge of the block into the bellhousing from the front.

fergus said:

3) Is it easiest to fit the NS engine mount and fit the engine to the chassis prior to fitting the alternator? I removed the engine with the alternator and DS pump attached to the engine, but both engine mounts removed....

I never bother removing the alternator, but if it was off, I'd put it back on first. Yes, it would be easier to get the engine back in without the alternator, but refitting the alernator is easier with the engine out of the car.
Lower the engine so that the engine is roughly in place, then refit both engine mounts. It's easier if the steering column is out, but then you have the difficulty of refitting the steering column. If the steering column is out, then I'd leave it out, I would not remove it specially.

[fergus]

thanks for the comprehensive reply!