Discussion
...where could I get one?
There's seems to be a bit of play in my current steering rack and I wondered what the options were for new or reconditioned units. Happy to lay the car up for a few weeks over the winter and send it off to be rebuilt if that's the most cost effective option. Planning to have it up on axle stands at some stage to treat the chassis tubes, so that may be the perfect opportunity...
On a related note - what's involved in removing and re-installing it, and (a bit more randomly) what's involved in changing the bearing right at the top of the steering column (in the cockpit)?
There's seems to be a bit of play in my current steering rack and I wondered what the options were for new or reconditioned units. Happy to lay the car up for a few weeks over the winter and send it off to be rebuilt if that's the most cost effective option. Planning to have it up on axle stands at some stage to treat the chassis tubes, so that may be the perfect opportunity...
On a related note - what's involved in removing and re-installing it, and (a bit more randomly) what's involved in changing the bearing right at the top of the steering column (in the cockpit)?
Chris71 said:
...where could I get one?
There's seems to be a bit of play in my current steering rack and I wondered what the options were for new or reconditioned units. Happy to lay the car up for a few weeks over the winter and send it off to be rebuilt if that's the most cost effective option. Planning to have it up on axle stands at some stage to treat the chassis tubes, so that may be the perfect opportunity...
On a related note - what's involved in removing and re-installing it, and (a bit more randomly) what's involved in changing the bearing right at the top of the steering column (in the cockpit)?
Tilton are your friends here as IIRC they made the rack for Caterham. They can recondition them. There are some inherent weaknesses in the std rack, which they may be able to help remedy. To remove it, simply remove the steering arm ball joints, then undo the 4 bolts which hold the rack to the large chassis crossmember and slide the whole thing out. There's seems to be a bit of play in my current steering rack and I wondered what the options were for new or reconditioned units. Happy to lay the car up for a few weeks over the winter and send it off to be rebuilt if that's the most cost effective option. Planning to have it up on axle stands at some stage to treat the chassis tubes, so that may be the perfect opportunity...
On a related note - what's involved in removing and re-installing it, and (a bit more randomly) what's involved in changing the bearing right at the top of the steering column (in the cockpit)?
Check that it is the bearing Chris, by undoing/removing the UJ right next to the bearing on the engine side and giving the bit of the column which passes through the bearing a wiggle.
fergus said:
Tilton are your friends here as IIRC they made the rack for Caterham. They can recondition them. There are some inherent weaknesses in the std rack, which they may be able to help remedy. To remove it, simply remove the steering arm ball joints, then undo the 4 bolts which hold the rack to the large chassis crossmember and slide the whole thing out.
Check that it is the bearing Chris, by undoing/removing the UJ right next to the bearing on the engine side and giving the bit of the column which passes through the bearing a wiggle.
I shall have to be very nice to Tilton in the next few months then it seems! Aren't they based in California? I presume there's a Tilton UK or something?Check that it is the bearing Chris, by undoing/removing the UJ right next to the bearing on the engine side and giving the bit of the column which passes through the bearing a wiggle.
I noticed the amount of deflection on steering column when I had the UJ off last week. Will double check though before I do anything though and try and listen to the bearing while I waggle the column. Not entirely sure how you actually change it though - looked quite involved when I took a glance before, but probably not.
ETA Am I right in thinking you get the standard rack, an 8% quicker rack for fast road, and then a 22% quicker rack for full race applications ('not recommended for road use')? Prices from the factory weren't quite as bad as I feared, but definitely worth looking around.
Edited by Chris71 on Wednesday 28th October 12:07
http://www.titan.uk.net/contact.php
They supplied me a scavenge pump direct, meaning I cut out the middlemen down in Dartford.....
They supplied me a scavenge pump direct, meaning I cut out the middlemen down in Dartford.....
fergus said:
http://www.titan.uk.net/contact.php
They supplied me a scavenge pump direct, meaning I cut out the middlemen down in Dartford.....
And their (considerable) mark ups? Sounds like a good idea... They supplied me a scavenge pump direct, meaning I cut out the middlemen down in Dartford.....
It turns out I'll be seeing Titan in Germany next week so I shall enquire.
Incorrigible said:
Are you sure it's not just requiring a small adjustment, there's a hexagonal locking nut on the top of the rack (where the column goes in) and an allen key to take the slack up as on top of the pinion
Also make sure it's not play where the two halves of the column join
Ben - how much would you expect to adjust the allen key to take up the slack? Is this a 1/4 turn job, or more of a couple of turns in the racks you've adjusted to date?Also make sure it's not play where the two halves of the column join
thks
Incorrigible said:
Are you sure it's not just requiring a small adjustment, there's a hexagonal locking nut on the top of the rack (where the column goes in) and an allen key to take the slack up as on top of the pinion
Will look into that (and indeed the track rod ends and so on).Basically there's a degree or two around the straight ahead (or presumably anywhere its unloaded) where the column is currnetly floating - you can move the steering wheels without the road wheels turning.
fergus said:
Incorrigible said:
Are you sure it's not just requiring a small adjustment, there's a hexagonal locking nut on the top of the rack (where the column goes in) and an allen key to take the slack up as on top of the pinion
Also make sure it's not play where the two halves of the column join
Ben - how much would you expect to adjust the allen key to take up the slack? Is this a 1/4 turn job, or more of a couple of turns in the racks you've adjusted to date?Also make sure it's not play where the two halves of the column join
thks
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