Gearbox removal....
Discussion
What's the estimated amount of time for a g/box removal (6spd+K) from an S3 chassis?
I'm guessing the following is involved?
1) remove starter, alternator, exhaust primaries
2) undo all harness connections.
3) remove water hoses
4) undo gearbox & engine mounts
How high do people suggest the car is if the engine and g/box are coming out in one lump? Is it easier to do it as engine, then gearbox?
Can the gearbox be slid off the splines on the prop, or does the prop need to be disconnected at the diff?
Have I missed any thing major here, or can anyone give me any extra tips?! chrs
I'm guessing the following is involved?
1) remove starter, alternator, exhaust primaries
2) undo all harness connections.
3) remove water hoses
4) undo gearbox & engine mounts
How high do people suggest the car is if the engine and g/box are coming out in one lump? Is it easier to do it as engine, then gearbox?
Can the gearbox be slid off the splines on the prop, or does the prop need to be disconnected at the diff?
Have I missed any thing major here, or can anyone give me any extra tips?! chrs
fergus said:
What's the estimated amount of time for a g/box removal (6spd+K) from an S3 chassis?
I'm guessing the following is involved?
1) remove starter, alternator, exhaust primaries
2) undo all harness connections.
3) remove water hoses
4) undo gearbox & engine mounts
How high do people suggest the car is if the engine and g/box are coming out in one lump? Is it easier to do it as engine, then gearbox?
Can the gearbox be slid off the splines on the prop, or does the prop need to be disconnected at the diff?
Have I missed any thing major here, or can anyone give me any extra tips?! chrs
1) Just exhaust offI'm guessing the following is involved?
1) remove starter, alternator, exhaust primaries
2) undo all harness connections.
3) remove water hoses
4) undo gearbox & engine mounts
How high do people suggest the car is if the engine and g/box are coming out in one lump? Is it easier to do it as engine, then gearbox?
Can the gearbox be slid off the splines on the prop, or does the prop need to be disconnected at the diff?
Have I missed any thing major here, or can anyone give me any extra tips?! chrs
2) yup
3) yup
4) yup and remove engine mounts from engine
5) clutch and throttle cables
6) gearbox oil (optional)
7) gearlever
8) speedo drive (or leccy connection)
9) reversing light switch
10) remove chassis cross member if removable.
Do it with car on wheels. It's easier to move car than crane/engine.
Prop slides out and gbox oil makes a mess if not drained.
If you are wanting gbox out, it's easier to do engine and box together.
Takes 1-2 hours depending on tea breaks!
Bert
Thanks Graham. Some more questions!
1) If the car is on its wheels, is there still room for the engine to be swung out w/o clouting the end of the gearbox on the floor?!
2) Is it easiest to attach the gearbox mount prior to remounting the whole lot?
3) When reassembling the g/box to the engine, what's the easiest way to line these two up to protect the spigot bearing in the end of the crank?
4) Can anyone think of any jobs to do whilst this lot is out of the car?
5) Who do people find are the manufacturers/suppliers of robust CRBs?!
thks
1) If the car is on its wheels, is there still room for the engine to be swung out w/o clouting the end of the gearbox on the floor?!
2) Is it easiest to attach the gearbox mount prior to remounting the whole lot?
3) When reassembling the g/box to the engine, what's the easiest way to line these two up to protect the spigot bearing in the end of the crank?
4) Can anyone think of any jobs to do whilst this lot is out of the car?
5) Who do people find are the manufacturers/suppliers of robust CRBs?!
thks
nicemd said:
Do I need to remove the gearbox for a CRB-change? Do I need to drain any oil?
Clutch hydraulic fluid?
Yes, it's physically impossible to not split the eng & g/box. GB oil will only need to be drained if you are moving the gearbox off the spline on the end of the propshaft. Depending on your sump setup, you may/maynot need to drain the engine oil when you split the eng and GB.Clutch hydraulic fluid?
Have you got an hydraulic CRB, or a hydraulically actuated release arm (sold as an "Hydraulic CRB" kit by caterham)?
fergus said:
GB oil will only need to be drained if you are moving the gearbox off the spline on the end of the propshaft.
If you take the box out on it's own, you don't need to drain the oil as long as you keep the tail high when you lift the box out.You can change a CRB without taking the engine out (at least on a K, by moving the engine forward) but it's such a faff you may as well lift the engine out.
Time wise, for swapping a gearbox, drive in, drive out, assuming two people who know what they're doing, c.2.5 hours. On your own, a bit longer. Couple of chaps used my garage the other day to do a box change and they timed it: 34 mins out, 45 back . . . but they're a couple of bodgers and I bet half the bolts were loose
nicemd said:
Do I need to remove the gearbox for a CRB-change? Do I need to drain any oil?
Clutch hydraulic fluid?
Box stays where it is with it's oil. Clutch hydraulic fluid?
No first hand experience of hydraulic clutch Caterhams but IIRC they use GM slave cylinders where the CRB pushes onto a carrier. So the hydraulic bits stay insitu.
fergus said:
nicemd said:
Do I need to remove the gearbox for a CRB-change? Do I need to drain any oil?
Clutch hydraulic fluid?
Yes, it's physically impossible to not split the eng & g/box. Clutch hydraulic fluid?
You only need to drain oil if you've got a dry sump. If you've got an appolo tank just lift it up still connected and rest it on top of the engine while it's being lifted out
>> in fact what he said ^^
Edited by Incorrigible on Sunday 27th September 13:41
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