SUMP GUARD for CSR

SUMP GUARD for CSR

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Arewethereyet

Original Poster:

29 posts

184 months

Saturday 15th August 2009
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After avoiding half a house brick on a NSL road - not by very much! I am wondering about a sump guard for the CSR dry sump system, the sump looks very exposed and I have been told there have been several instances of sump breakage, at 700+ to buy the sump plus engine out! I would like to try and make an effort to guard it - anyone have any lightweight BUT good.... ideas?

allen l

443 posts

183 months

Saturday 15th August 2009
quotequote all
Not a csr, but I'm having the same problem with it about 8cm of the ground. I'm probably going to let someone weld some plates on the chassis so I can bolt a guard on it. Not feeling like going home at day two of a roadtrip.

BBL-Sean

336 posts

181 months

Saturday 15th August 2009
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Have you seen the Caterham (Cosworth) one? https://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product_info.php?c...

Mars

8,945 posts

219 months

Saturday 15th August 2009
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All you need is something angled from the front of the car allowing you to ride up and over anything that would normally crash into the front of the sump pan. A 2mm thick piece of ali would do it. Thicker if you're paranoid. Duralumin if you can find it (and bend it).

greengreenwood7

764 posts

196 months

Tuesday 25th August 2009
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havent got a 'Cat' but had the same problem on my tiger, as live down lanes where stones build up down the middle was a bit paranoid as i've probably got 3-4 inches clearance. have had a guard made out of 3mm chequer plate - mounted at front on a new cross member and at rear under bellhousing on a frame to the 2 chassis rails. a word of advice if you're thinking of getting something made. put a degree of thought into the design. mine looks fine and works BUT, it lowers the car even more, i therefore hit more stones than i'd normally would. after a while due to the small gap between b/house and frame, the frame ends up touching the b/house and i get a vibration thru the car, followed by a lovely rattle. means i have to get the car in the air every 3-4 weeks to bend it back. also, if you do clout anything really hard its going to put pressure on wherever its fitted to chassis. over winter i'm going to fit something like an exhaust bobbin or similar so the plate mill move up under pressure and back to normal when the object has passed by. that said i hit a scaffolding bracket 2 weeks ago, couldnt avoid it, front of car went up like a speedboat, plate scored, ripped a hole under the drivers seat and without it i would have been looking at a pretty bill for a new sump. chrs mark

Arewethereyet

Original Poster:

29 posts

184 months

Tuesday 25th August 2009
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Thanks for the input - Yes I had thought of an additional plate under the sump JUST adding to the problem BUT I think the advantages are worth the possibility of additional damage from the shunt effect.

The Caterham offering bolts to the sump itself - and is a better than nothing approach - But I want a real well made solution - mounting on the bobbins sound like a good idea........mmm

I will get on with making one -

Now where did I leave that titanium.........?

Epimetheus

161 posts

245 months

Tuesday 25th August 2009
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I have a BEC and made one from 4mm dural sheet to protect my expensive sump. It goes from the crossmember at the front axle line (held in place by some old rear arb mounts to the chassis) to the front of the floor (I have a one piece, 2mm ally floor so it's pretty strong). There's an additional crossmember about 2/5ths of the way back. It's about 3' long and 10" wide so you'd think it weighs a tonne, but it's surprisingly light (IRO 2kg I suppose).

As far as making it went, I made a pattern from thin ally sheet and then ground 3mm deep transverse scores in the dural before bending it and fitting it to the car. Then I took it off and bolted it to a board to hold it in place while the scored grooves were welded up.

It's a sort of -----\_____/--- shape but with less pronounced angles if you see what I mean. There are no curves in it - there's no way I could bend 4mm dural accurately.

Anyway, it works a treat.

I appreciate it's not quite so simple with a CEC's bellhousing but I still think this is the best way of protecting the bottom of the engine from kerbs, manholes, speed bumps, etc. The car just lifts and glides over anything it hits.


Arewethereyet

Original Poster:

29 posts

184 months

Thursday 27th August 2009
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Sounds just what I am thinking of cobbling together - any pictures? Would give some inspiration................

Edited by Arewethereyet on Thursday 27th August 11:38