First track day in the Seven - any tips?
Discussion
I'm off to the Evo track evening at Bedford on Friday and it'll be the first time my RSA has been driven in anger. What should I check before, after and during the session? Is there anything you'd suggest playing around with - different tyre pressures or anything?
Also, does anyone know roughly how many miles a mildly tuned 1.6 Supersport will return to the tank on track? Mine's got a bag tank (standard Roadsport capacity I believe) with no petrol gauge so I'm going to have to set the trip counter and pray!
Done a reasonable number of track days before, but seems it's first time out in the new toy (haven't even had a chance to drive it spiritedly on the road yet) I've booked myself in for some tuition. Quite how we'll communicate in an open Caterham remains to be seen, but it should be fun.
Also, does anyone know roughly how many miles a mildly tuned 1.6 Supersport will return to the tank on track? Mine's got a bag tank (standard Roadsport capacity I believe) with no petrol gauge so I'm going to have to set the trip counter and pray!
Done a reasonable number of track days before, but seems it's first time out in the new toy (haven't even had a chance to drive it spiritedly on the road yet) I've booked myself in for some tuition. Quite how we'll communicate in an open Caterham remains to be seen, but it should be fun.
tyre pressures 18 psi cold.
Check normal stuff oil, water etc,get seat in the right position and get mirrors sorted, but do not get too paranoid.
My advice take your time to warm the car up properly , do a good few laps at a steady pace , regardless of those around you.
Increase pace as you and the car get to know each other.
It is not about racing or show boating just have fun
Check normal stuff oil, water etc,get seat in the right position and get mirrors sorted, but do not get too paranoid.
My advice take your time to warm the car up properly , do a good few laps at a steady pace , regardless of those around you.
Increase pace as you and the car get to know each other.
It is not about racing or show boating just have fun
Chris71 said:
Thanks. Speaking of oil, can someone remind me what the procedure is for checking it on a dry sump system?
Opinons vary, but method one is to start the car, let it run for 30 secs or so, kill the engine, then fairly quickly dip the dry sump tank, and aim for between 9-11" on a dipstick. Method two is to follow method one, but add another 1/2 litre (or so) of oil. The car will throw what it doesn't want into the catch tank. Beware that you don't want to 'overfill' the sump tank with more than the capacity of the catch tank. After doing the top up, you're probably best starting the engine in the pits/paddock, with the bonnet off, where upon you can see the catch tank being filled. This can happen at a rate of knots, so get ready to kill the engine if it looks like the catch tank is getting overly full!
On my DS SLR, it only holds about 3.5 litres of oil in total (including the filter), although this is after undoing the drain plug at the base of the DS tank, so there is prob at least 1/2 litre left in the sump itself.
Have you got a caterham DS tank (built into the bell housing) or a seperate Pace tank?
Mine is a Caterham DS and I follow the procedure as above working on around 10 inches on the dipstick , personally if you have this level I would not add more oil.
Generally I manage around 120 miles on a trackday and the oil level only reduces a little.
I would make sure its ok at the start of the day , check at lunchtime , finish the day and go home with a smile , check when back in the garage
Generally I manage around 120 miles on a trackday and the oil level only reduces a little.
I would make sure its ok at the start of the day , check at lunchtime , finish the day and go home with a smile , check when back in the garage
fergus said:
Chris71 said:
Thanks. Speaking of oil, can someone remind me what the procedure is for checking it on a dry sump system?
Opinons vary, but method one is to start the car, let it run for 30 secs or so, kill the engine, then fairly quickly dip the dry sump tank, and aim for between 9-11" on a dipstick. Method two is to follow method one, but add another 1/2 litre (or so) of oil. The car will throw what it doesn't want into the catch tank. Beware that you don't want to 'overfill' the sump tank with more than the capacity of the catch tank. After doing the top up, you're probably best starting the engine in the pits/paddock, with the bonnet off, where upon you can see the catch tank being filled. This can happen at a rate of knots, so get ready to kill the engine if it looks like the catch tank is getting overly full!
On my DS SLR, it only holds about 3.5 litres of oil in total (including the filter), although this is after undoing the drain plug at the base of the DS tank, so there is prob at least 1/2 litre left in the sump itself.
Have you got a caterham DS tank (built into the bell housing) or a seperate Pace tank?
Bert
Just to add on the subject of oil levels, whilst you shouldn't need to check too often, as it's a new car to you, I'd check after each session until you are confident on the oil usage. If it was using a lot of oil, you wouldn't want to compound it by running out!
It shouldn't happen on the 1600ss, but it nearly caught me out in my SLR. I drove it for ages on the road and it used no oil at all. Drove down to Spain for my first track day, used no oil. Once on track though, the oil disappeared at an astonishing rate. I nearly screwed up big time!
Bert
It shouldn't happen on the 1600ss, but it nearly caught me out in my SLR. I drove it for ages on the road and it used no oil at all. Drove down to Spain for my first track day, used no oil. Once on track though, the oil disappeared at an astonishing rate. I nearly screwed up big time!
Bert
Thanks, will grab a can of oil, along with my socket set, tyre pressure gauge and pump. Maybe the tonneau too in the absence of a hood!
Off the top of my head I can't actually say, but I don't think I've seen an external catch tank, so I presume it's the Caterham system. Will check tonight.
Half tempted to leave a petrol can in the pits (I presume you get garages at Bedford?) should be pretty safe though as it's only a 2 hour 45 evening session and I'll probably head off to blag the occasional passenger ride or something during that too.
Off the top of my head I can't actually say, but I don't think I've seen an external catch tank, so I presume it's the Caterham system. Will check tonight.
Half tempted to leave a petrol can in the pits (I presume you get garages at Bedford?) should be pretty safe though as it's only a 2 hour 45 evening session and I'll probably head off to blag the occasional passenger ride or something during that too.
Chris71 said:
Thanks, will grab a can of oil, along with my socket set, tyre pressure gauge and pump. Maybe the tonneau too in the absence of a hood!
Off the top of my head I can't actually say, but I don't think I've seen an external catch tank, so I presume it's the Caterham system. Will check tonight.
Half tempted to leave a petrol can in the pits (I presume you get garages at Bedford?) should be pretty safe though as it's only a 2 hour 45 evening session and I'll probably head off to blag the occasional passenger ride or something during that too.
Chris there are 2 things in play here:Off the top of my head I can't actually say, but I don't think I've seen an external catch tank, so I presume it's the Caterham system. Will check tonight.
Half tempted to leave a petrol can in the pits (I presume you get garages at Bedford?) should be pretty safe though as it's only a 2 hour 45 evening session and I'll probably head off to blag the occasional passenger ride or something during that too.
1) the oil tank (big thing that either looks like a submarine periscope, which leads to a section in the bell housing, or a large tank which looks like an alloy robinsons 3 litre juice bottle)
2) catch tank (probably plastic or perhaps alloy) which catches any overspill from the main oil tank.
Your car should have both. Post an engine bay photo if you can?
PS oil is oil, so as long as the scavenge pump has cleared the sump, it shouldn't matter if the oil is hot or cold to measure the level. I'd almost say that the job will be easier when the oil is cold, as it's less viscous and therefore will stay in the oil tank slightly longer (rather than slowly draining back in to the sump)...!
Chris71 said:
Half tempted to leave a petrol can in the pits (I presume you get garages at Bedford?) should be pretty safe though as it's only a 2 hour 45 evening session ...
Make sure you've got enough fuel to leave the circuit! I've got an ATL bag tank, and have one of their capillary fuel sender's connected to my electronic dash. You need to calibrate the sender on a litre by litre basis, as the analogue signal output isn't linear!
fergus said:
Chris71 said:
Half tempted to leave a petrol can in the pits (I presume you get garages at Bedford?) should be pretty safe though as it's only a 2 hour 45 evening session ...
Make sure you've got enough fuel to leave the circuit! I've got an ATL bag tank, and have one of their capillary fuel sender's connected to my electronic dash. You need to calibrate the sender on a litre by litre basis, as the analogue signal output isn't linear!
fergus said:
PS oil is oil, so as long as the scavenge pump has cleared the sump, it shouldn't matter if the oil is hot or cold to measure the level. I'd almost say that the job will be easier when the oil is cold, as it's less viscous and therefore will stay in the oil tank slightly longer (rather than slowly draining back in to the sump)...!
Nope, as I am always disagreeing with everyone, do not follow Fergus' advice. Check it hot. I had a garage floor covered in oil by checking cold, thinking it was low and putting more and more in, until...Bert
BertBert said:
fergus said:
PS oil is oil, so as long as the scavenge pump has cleared the sump, it shouldn't matter if the oil is hot or cold to measure the level. I'd almost say that the job will be easier when the oil is cold, as it's less viscous and therefore will stay in the oil tank slightly longer (rather than slowly draining back in to the sump)...!
Nope, as I am always disagreeing with everyone, do not follow Fergus' advice. Check it hot. I had a garage floor covered in oil by checking cold, thinking it was low and putting more and more in, until...Bert
What's your rationale for the expanding oil comment?!
fergus said:
BertBert said:
fergus said:
PS oil is oil, so as long as the scavenge pump has cleared the sump, it shouldn't matter if the oil is hot or cold to measure the level. I'd almost say that the job will be easier when the oil is cold, as it's less viscous and therefore will stay in the oil tank slightly longer (rather than slowly draining back in to the sump)...!
Nope, as I am always disagreeing with everyone, do not follow Fergus' advice. Check it hot. I had a garage floor covered in oil by checking cold, thinking it was low and putting more and more in, until...Bert
What's your rationale for the expanding oil comment?!
Chris
from minister site :
Caterham Roadsport / Graduate / Academy dry sump?
Q1 How should I set the oil level in my dry sump oil tank?
A The procedure to adopt is to warm the engine up to approximately 70°c water, then turn engine off, remove the oil filler cap, and with a clean steel rule measure from the bottom of the tank (avoiding any misleading castings!) a minimum of 9.5" (24cms) of oil is required. Replace oil filler cap. The advice is to slightly fill above this level and allow the engine to find its own level by throwing some of the excess oil into the catch tank. Close monitoring of this excess oil being thrown out, will gradually indicate the oil level the system will hold. Ideally, the catch tank will have ½" to ¾" (1 to 2cms) of oil in the catch tank after a half hour test session. Check oil level at least every half-hour track use.
May see you at Bedford, popping over to watch a mate
from minister site :
Caterham Roadsport / Graduate / Academy dry sump?
Q1 How should I set the oil level in my dry sump oil tank?
A The procedure to adopt is to warm the engine up to approximately 70°c water, then turn engine off, remove the oil filler cap, and with a clean steel rule measure from the bottom of the tank (avoiding any misleading castings!) a minimum of 9.5" (24cms) of oil is required. Replace oil filler cap. The advice is to slightly fill above this level and allow the engine to find its own level by throwing some of the excess oil into the catch tank. Close monitoring of this excess oil being thrown out, will gradually indicate the oil level the system will hold. Ideally, the catch tank will have ½" to ¾" (1 to 2cms) of oil in the catch tank after a half hour test session. Check oil level at least every half-hour track use.
May see you at Bedford, popping over to watch a mate
markiebabes said:
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Q1 How should I set the oil level in my dry sump oil tank?
A The procedure to adopt is to warm the engine up to approximately 70°c water, then turn engine off, remove the oil filler cap, and with a clean steel rule measure from the bottom of the tank (avoiding any misleading castings!) a minimum of 9.5" (24cms) of oil is required. Replace oil filler cap. The advice is to slightly fill above this level and allow the engine to find its own level by throwing some of the excess oil into the catch tank. Close monitoring of this excess oil being thrown out, will gradually indicate the oil level the system will hold. Ideally, the catch tank will have ½" to ¾" (1 to 2cms) of oil in the catch tank after a half hour test session. Check oil level at least every half-hour track use.
thanks. A water jacket temp of 70 degrees can have the oil still at only 15-20 degrees on a typical UK day. Not hot enough for any polymers to start flexing their chains!Q1 How should I set the oil level in my dry sump oil tank?
A The procedure to adopt is to warm the engine up to approximately 70°c water, then turn engine off, remove the oil filler cap, and with a clean steel rule measure from the bottom of the tank (avoiding any misleading castings!) a minimum of 9.5" (24cms) of oil is required. Replace oil filler cap. The advice is to slightly fill above this level and allow the engine to find its own level by throwing some of the excess oil into the catch tank. Close monitoring of this excess oil being thrown out, will gradually indicate the oil level the system will hold. Ideally, the catch tank will have ½" to ¾" (1 to 2cms) of oil in the catch tank after a half hour test session. Check oil level at least every half-hour track use.
fergus said:
markiebabes said:
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Q1 How should I set the oil level in my dry sump oil tank?
A The procedure to adopt is to warm the engine up to approximately 70°c water, then turn engine off, remove the oil filler cap, and with a clean steel rule measure from the bottom of the tank (avoiding any misleading castings!) a minimum of 9.5" (24cms) of oil is required. Replace oil filler cap. The advice is to slightly fill above this level and allow the engine to find its own level by throwing some of the excess oil into the catch tank. Close monitoring of this excess oil being thrown out, will gradually indicate the oil level the system will hold. Ideally, the catch tank will have ½" to ¾" (1 to 2cms) of oil in the catch tank after a half hour test session. Check oil level at least every half-hour track use.
thanks. A water jacket temp of 70 degrees can have the oil still at only 15-20 degrees on a typical UK day. Not hot enough for any polymers to start flexing their chains!Q1 How should I set the oil level in my dry sump oil tank?
A The procedure to adopt is to warm the engine up to approximately 70°c water, then turn engine off, remove the oil filler cap, and with a clean steel rule measure from the bottom of the tank (avoiding any misleading castings!) a minimum of 9.5" (24cms) of oil is required. Replace oil filler cap. The advice is to slightly fill above this level and allow the engine to find its own level by throwing some of the excess oil into the catch tank. Close monitoring of this excess oil being thrown out, will gradually indicate the oil level the system will hold. Ideally, the catch tank will have ½" to ¾" (1 to 2cms) of oil in the catch tank after a half hour test session. Check oil level at least every half-hour track use.
Quite a few engines need hot oil for the level to be successfully checked, porsche and caterham being two. It's to do with the rate of draining down and getting a stable level in the DS. If you have cold oil, it'll drain down much more slowly.
It doesn't bother me, it's not legal weasel words we are looking at, the oil should be hot!
Bert
ETA: http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?HowDoI%2FCheckMyK%2D...
Edited by BertBert on Wednesday 8th July 19:34
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