K series water pump
Discussion
My friend has a caterham with the K series 1.8 VVC engine with overheating problems, he's tried changing the thermostat as it didnt appear to be opening but it now seems its just not circulating enough to open. Sorry i'm just guessing here but is the pump driven off the cambelts? If so does anyone know if you need a set of camlocks ect before you undertake the work? He had the headgakset done recently so i would have expected the belts and waterpump to be changed anyway.
Any advice would be great cheers.
Any advice would be great cheers.
thermostat as you point out won't cause this -- even the thermostats with a tiny hole will always allow some through. as RS suggests, sounds like classic airlock.
if you don't search BC, the procedure is roughly (as i'm about 2 days from doing this in Sydney)...
1) get an engine hoist
2) attach to engine
3) run car up to temp
4) host car to 35-35 degree angle in the front
5) open bleed screw on radiator, let air out.
6) add more coolant to either radiator or expansion tank
7) lower car
8) run engine up to temp
9) repeat (407)
10) a few iterations and this should too pass....
PS> quite a number of us moved to a rover diesel PN thermostat, that opens 78-82 vs. Caterham supplied one that opens 92 - 98. This means it will open far sooner, so engine builds up less heat, but comes at the sacrifice if you need a LOT of heat from your heater you'll not get as much. But the benefit of a cooler engine is self-evident for our cheese-based K series blocks.
if you don't search BC, the procedure is roughly (as i'm about 2 days from doing this in Sydney)...
1) get an engine hoist
2) attach to engine
3) run car up to temp
4) host car to 35-35 degree angle in the front
5) open bleed screw on radiator, let air out.
6) add more coolant to either radiator or expansion tank
7) lower car
8) run engine up to temp
9) repeat (407)
10) a few iterations and this should too pass....
PS> quite a number of us moved to a rover diesel PN thermostat, that opens 78-82 vs. Caterham supplied one that opens 92 - 98. This means it will open far sooner, so engine builds up less heat, but comes at the sacrifice if you need a LOT of heat from your heater you'll not get as much. But the benefit of a cooler engine is self-evident for our cheese-based K series blocks.
I know this thread is a bit old but hoping someone will assist. I have a 1.6 k series. While driving the car yesterday it developed a nasty buzz from the area around the cam belt. Got home started to take off alternator belt and cam cover to try to identify location of buzz. Any ideas? I thought it sounds like it may be coming from the water pump? I did change the coolant recently and it is possible I didn't bleed the system properly as I forgot to open heater. Might I have done some damage. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated
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