Uprated Master Cylinder / Anti-Cav Tank

[bushhpd]

Have just put a desposit down on a new Roadsport CDX. Have confirmed most of the spec, but still not sure whether to get either/both of an uprated master cylinder and anti-cavitation tank.

Planning to take the car on a few trackdays a year plus weekend road use.

Any thoughts on whether either option is needed / advisable?

[Risky]

Anti cavitation tank is an absolute minimum for trackdays. If you're planning lots of trackdays and sticky tyres then you need to be thinking of a dry sump set up instead.
Uprated brake master cylinder? I've no experience, but suggest it's worth trying a standard cylinder and an easy upgrade at a later date if you feel it necessary.

[Murph7355]

Agree with risky.

[casbar]

If you have big brakes, you don't need the uprated mc. It really depends on how you like your peddle to feel. I prefer a little more movement in the peddle, so have a standard mc. The uprated mc, generally gives a very hard peddle.

[Red Seven]

The standard master cylinder also requires more movement before it starts to move the fluid than the uprated master cylinder, which gives the impression of an even softer pedal.
However, this free movement can be reduced by fitting an additional washer under the master cylinder push rod behind the circlip.
With standard brakes, the standard master cylinder works well.
The brake pads that are normally supplied by Caterham with standard brakes, tend to give a little too much bias to the rear. Fitting Mintex 1144 pads in the front moves the bias to the front.
For heavy track use, you'll find that you get a soft pedal. This is normally fluid boil in the rear brakes. Swapping to a fluid with a higher boiling point (like AP 600, or Castrol SRF) will cure this.

Edited by Red Seven on Monday 29th December 11:45