Discussion
I've got a 1996 1.4k which runs perfectly well, and though I am on the look out for a new engine, as yet have not been able to find the right sort of thing at the right sort of price.
So in the mean time, am happy with what I've got, apart from the oil pressure that is. On start up from cold, runs at 4 on the pressure gauge (standard Caterham VDO gauge) which I assume (?) means 4 bar.
Once it gets up to temp tho, pressure drops as low as 2 on tickover? Pressure picks up fine when revved and red light on dash never comes on. Is this OK?
Also on long right handers or roundabouts (when pressing on) pressure drops away again (I have seen it down to just less than 2, though not really able to monitor when cornering at speed!)
Have had 2 different sorts of fully synthetic oil in as an attempt to cure, but to no avail. Would a anti-cavitaion tank help? Hellier baffle? Any thoughts/advice
Many thanks in advance for your help
So in the mean time, am happy with what I've got, apart from the oil pressure that is. On start up from cold, runs at 4 on the pressure gauge (standard Caterham VDO gauge) which I assume (?) means 4 bar.
Once it gets up to temp tho, pressure drops as low as 2 on tickover? Pressure picks up fine when revved and red light on dash never comes on. Is this OK?
Also on long right handers or roundabouts (when pressing on) pressure drops away again (I have seen it down to just less than 2, though not really able to monitor when cornering at speed!)
Have had 2 different sorts of fully synthetic oil in as an attempt to cure, but to no avail. Would a anti-cavitaion tank help? Hellier baffle? Any thoughts/advice
Many thanks in advance for your help
Paul
values you quote are OK and readings are in BAR. Dropping on fast conrnering is unusual on the road, more common on track use and hte gauge is often damped os the real drop isn't fully seen, are you running sticky tyres? maybe an Apollo installtion would help (increases Oil quanity and helps ot deareate)
values you quote are OK and readings are in BAR. Dropping on fast conrnering is unusual on the road, more common on track use and hte gauge is often damped os the real drop isn't fully seen, are you running sticky tyres? maybe an Apollo installtion would help (increases Oil quanity and helps ot deareate)
Sounds pretty normal to me - Check that the oil level is OK as it can be more sensitive to cornering if the level is down (basically it stops sucking oil up sooner if the level is lower). My gauge shows 4-6 at startup and then 2 at idle and 4 under load.
An apollo tank is a good idea as it adds another 2litres to the system and reduces the chance of oil & air mousse getting into the cams.
Steve
An apollo tank is a good idea as it adds another 2litres to the system and reduces the chance of oil & air mousse getting into the cams.
Steve
Oil level OK and tyres are Toyo's (don't think they are particularly good or sticky, though the oil pressure is dropping when I am getting the "pinned in" feeling as cornering forces build up, so I guess they can't be that bad either)
Will have to investigate the Apollo more thoroughly
Many thanks for advice so far
Will have to investigate the Apollo more thoroughly
Many thanks for advice so far
Do you still have the foam baffle in the sump? Dave Andrews (K-Series guru and oilyhands on www.blatchat.com ) has a modification to the sump gasket to improve oil pickup.
ewenm said:
Do you still have the foam baffle in the sump? Dave Andrews (K-Series guru and oilyhands on www.blatchat.com ) has a modification to the sump gasket to improve oil pickup.
exactly, unless you can stop the oil from moving away from the oil pick in the sump, it doesn't matter if you have an extra 50 litres in a sump external to the engine! The exception to this is an accusump, which is a pressurised 'tank' which will automatically dump oil to your oil pump in the event of a loss of oil pressure. Either get a sump baffle, an accusump, or bite the bullet and get a dry sump. The oil pressure will also vary with type of oil and oil temp. The numbers look fine though, e.g 60psi ~ 4 bar when cold, and 30psi ~ 2 bar when oil is fully warm. Speak to Dave andrews to get a more professional opinion.
Yeah I've still got the foam baffle in the sump, which I changed last year ebfore I did the first oil change. Before I did it I had thought the baffle would run down the middle of the sump to control the flow of oil side to side when cornering,but when I started the job I realised it runs along the bottom of the pots. Anyways, that has been changed and as well as the sump gasket.
Will get in touch with Dave Andrews as recommended - just wish I had the money to talk to him about a new engine!!!! and not a problem with the one I've got!!
Cheers guys
Will get in touch with Dave Andrews as recommended - just wish I had the money to talk to him about a new engine!!!! and not a problem with the one I've got!!
Cheers guys
Don't think you have a problem with the engine you have - numbers sound OK as others have said.
Remember that the engine was designed to sit the other way round in a chassis, and not in one that could pull the sort of cornering forces a 7 can. Hence the foam design.
The only way to properly protect your engine is a dry sump. But if you're considering changing the engine, it might be a waste to do right now.
Keep an eye on oil levels, change it regularly and be slightly wary of cornering speeds until you do something with the engine, particularly on RH bends.
Remember that the engine was designed to sit the other way round in a chassis, and not in one that could pull the sort of cornering forces a 7 can. Hence the foam design.
The only way to properly protect your engine is a dry sump. But if you're considering changing the engine, it might be a waste to do right now.
Keep an eye on oil levels, change it regularly and be slightly wary of cornering speeds until you do something with the engine, particularly on RH bends.
I made the biggest mistake this weekend of overfilling my dry sump following an oil and filter change....
I cranked the car over a few times with the LT lead disconnected to get some oil in the system, then started it up. The hose connecting the top of the 'conning tower' to the catch tank then came loose, and pumped oil all over the bulkhead, me, and the wall behind me!
Following a clean up operation, I have a slight problem - the oil pressure is showing around 70psi. I ran the car until the water temp got to about 50 degrees, but the oil temp was still sub 20 degrees, and the pressure didn't drop at all. From memory, with the old oil (mobil1 15w50) it started off with a similar pressure, but started to fall slightly quicker when *some* heat was in the oil. Now I'm using a 5w40, it would have thought it should be slightly lower if anything...
Got a t/day at Silv at the weekend and obviously don't want to shag the engine. Any pitfalls of having too much oil pressure, other than on crankcase seals, etc? Any suggestions of things that could be at fault if things don't right themselves once the viscocity has improved once the oil is fully hot?
I cranked the car over a few times with the LT lead disconnected to get some oil in the system, then started it up. The hose connecting the top of the 'conning tower' to the catch tank then came loose, and pumped oil all over the bulkhead, me, and the wall behind me!
Following a clean up operation, I have a slight problem - the oil pressure is showing around 70psi. I ran the car until the water temp got to about 50 degrees, but the oil temp was still sub 20 degrees, and the pressure didn't drop at all. From memory, with the old oil (mobil1 15w50) it started off with a similar pressure, but started to fall slightly quicker when *some* heat was in the oil. Now I'm using a 5w40, it would have thought it should be slightly lower if anything...
Got a t/day at Silv at the weekend and obviously don't want to shag the engine. Any pitfalls of having too much oil pressure, other than on crankcase seals, etc? Any suggestions of things that could be at fault if things don't right themselves once the viscocity has improved once the oil is fully hot?
Fergus, I can't help, as I know nothing about dry-sump systems, and to be honest have limited other knowledge.
Just wanted to reply to let you know that you're not being ignored, its just that I am stupid and know nothing and am of absolutely no use to you. But, when I needed a question answering, you helped, so I feel a bit useless and guilty!
If you need any questions on rock or heavy metal music answering, I'm you're man! Just not Caterhams!
Just wanted to reply to let you know that you're not being ignored, its just that I am stupid and know nothing and am of absolutely no use to you. But, when I needed a question answering, you helped, so I feel a bit useless and guilty!
If you need any questions on rock or heavy metal music answering, I'm you're man! Just not Caterhams!
Where are your pressure and temp senders? Do the gauges move at all? Could your mishap have chucked oil over the sensors and their connectors?
Which dry sump system do you have? Is there still oil in the system (sounds like their must be)? Is it still over full (sounds like it might not be )?
Etc?
Assuming you didn't massive over fill it, I think you'd likely get any surplus blowing out into your catch tank (is this full?). How much oil did you put in it?
Which dry sump system do you have? Is there still oil in the system (sounds like their must be)? Is it still over full (sounds like it might not be
)? Etc?
Assuming you didn't massive over fill it, I think you'd likely get any surplus blowing out into your catch tank (is this full?). How much oil did you put in it?
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