Hitting the sump on non-Dry Sump Duratecs
Discussion
Yes- by about an inch (I’ll look properly when I go to garage next- just checked photo of recent engine install)
However, with the dry sump I think the bell housing is the same and the bottom bolts hold a nylon wedge shape (I may be incorrect on this) so the lowest point would be the same dry or wet sump, albeit further back.
However, with the dry sump I think the bell housing is the same and the bottom bolts hold a nylon wedge shape (I may be incorrect on this) so the lowest point would be the same dry or wet sump, albeit further back.
squirejo said:
Yes- by about an inch (I’ll look properly when I go to garage next- just checked photo of recent engine install)
However, with the dry sump I think the bell housing is the same and the bottom bolts hold a nylon wedge shape (I may be incorrect on this) so the lowest point would be the same dry or wet sump, albeit further back.
Ah interesting...ok thanks However, with the dry sump I think the bell housing is the same and the bottom bolts hold a nylon wedge shape (I may be incorrect on this) so the lowest point would be the same dry or wet sump, albeit further back.
squirejo said:
However, with the dry sump I think the bell housing is the same and the bottom bolts hold a nylon wedge shape (I may be incorrect on this) so the lowest point would be the same dry or wet sump, albeit further back.
Yep, you're spot on with this.The nylon wedge is around £90 to replace, which is a hell of a lot cheaper than a cracked bell housing!!!
jezzaaa said:
Hi All...been watching YouTube again....mentions and one example of a sump being smashed on a bumpy road. Does the Duratec sump sit below the chassis?
Ta,
J.
It wasn't that Monkey London one, was it?Ta,
J.
Either way, you can adjust the ride height on a Seven, so wouldn't be too worried about it.
ghibbett said:
squirejo said:
However, with the dry sump I think the bell housing is the same and the bottom bolts hold a nylon wedge shape (I may be incorrect on this) so the lowest point would be the same dry or wet sump, albeit further back.
Yep, you're spot on with this.The nylon wedge is around £90 to replace, which is a hell of a lot cheaper than a cracked bell housing!!!
AndrewGP said:
Definitely worth fitting the wedge if you get a dry sump fitted. I initially balked at the cost but figured it was probably worth it and I’m so glad I did….it’s now got a huge scrape down it which would have taken out the bell housing had I not bothered.
So for 360s without a dry sump, is there no protection available? I presume that there's just a metal sump sticking down where the wedge would be on a dry sump car?squirejo said:
correct the sump is flat, aluminium and runs the length of the engine to meet the bell housing.
Hmmm thank you ... so a lot of care required then. I had a look to see if sump guards are available but couldn't find any. I wonder if there's fabrication opportunity here? At least to take the first hit and lift the car so the sump doesn't get so much damage.I have a 2 litre duratec. It is fitted with a raceline flat bottom, slimline aluminium sump. I don't know if this gives more clearance than the original but I think it does.
I also have a sump guard. The advantage is protection, the disadvantage is less ground clearance. I've only lightly caught this on a couple of occasions but I think it's worth having for piece of mind.
I also have a sump guard. The advantage is protection, the disadvantage is less ground clearance. I've only lightly caught this on a couple of occasions but I think it's worth having for piece of mind.
Most of the sump catastrophes I’ve read about (on K series wet sump engines) usually involves a road with adverse camber both sides and cats eyes (cast iron holder type). This is usually during an overtake!
The general rule is if you can roll a beer can under the sump then ride heights set about right. This however might not be the optimum suspension setting, so it can be a bit of a compromise.
On mine the original 14” wheels and 60 profile tyres gave better clearance. I switched to 13s along with a DS system. Again, some owners switch to 13s as they look better but with it comes risks.
An acquaintance wrote his seven off visiting a local preserved steam railway. At the entrance there was a metal gate stop concreted in the centre of the road. The front of his sump hit this and pushed the whole drive train back 2 inches, the force of which bent the chassis.
Driving a seven you do have to increase your concentration / attention at all times, as things that are non events for a tintop (with all its driver aids) can have dire consequences in the seven.
The general rule is if you can roll a beer can under the sump then ride heights set about right. This however might not be the optimum suspension setting, so it can be a bit of a compromise.
On mine the original 14” wheels and 60 profile tyres gave better clearance. I switched to 13s along with a DS system. Again, some owners switch to 13s as they look better but with it comes risks.
An acquaintance wrote his seven off visiting a local preserved steam railway. At the entrance there was a metal gate stop concreted in the centre of the road. The front of his sump hit this and pushed the whole drive train back 2 inches, the force of which bent the chassis.
Driving a seven you do have to increase your concentration / attention at all times, as things that are non events for a tintop (with all its driver aids) can have dire consequences in the seven.
I hit a tilted manhole cover with the sump of a K series R300.
It made me feel physically sick!
It pushed the engine up on the mounts enough for the exhaust to curl the side skin under.
But the sump didn't leak. I changed it as a precaution, but the old one hadn't cracked. Surprisingly tough!
It made me feel physically sick!
It pushed the engine up on the mounts enough for the exhaust to curl the side skin under.
But the sump didn't leak. I changed it as a precaution, but the old one hadn't cracked. Surprisingly tough!
Speaking of bottoming out, if you get a car with lowered floors you'll get very familiar with the bolts scraping their way over speed bumps (and how to ride bumps to avoid it happening).
I've had the sump tap on a very high but narrow speedbump, and I've also had to avoid large rocks in the road. But as others have said, if the road has a lot of camber, it's best to avoid overtaking as the cats eyes can get pretty high!
(This is on a Sigma by the way)
I've had the sump tap on a very high but narrow speedbump, and I've also had to avoid large rocks in the road. But as others have said, if the road has a lot of camber, it's best to avoid overtaking as the cats eyes can get pretty high!
(This is on a Sigma by the way)
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