Problems - Top wishbone rod end
Discussion
Hi all,
I came across a problem while setting up the camber on a friends caterham.
To do this you need to disconnect the top wishbone rod end from the hub carrier by unscrewing the silver nut then tap it off gently with a hammer to dislocate it from the hub.
Now you can unscrew or screw it in several turns off/in the wishbone so to set the camber as desired.
See attached:
(caterhamparts.co.uk .. query=rod+end&results=166)
The silver nut was easy to undo, so was to dislocate and remove the rod end from the hub carrier.
The problem was in unscrewing the rod ends of the wishbone and required the use of a spanner to increase leverage.
With the increased leverage it was "easy...er" however once set to the correct position and tried to assemble the lot the silver nut between the rod end and the hub was spinning together with the rod. As a result now i cannot assemble it ....
Why did that happen is the rod end knackered ?
I assume the rod end should have the freedom to move around since at the other end there is a ball joint to allow just that but should not turn within its own axis since it will not be possible to tight the nut.
So i need to order new rod ends right?
Am i correct?
Thanks
Trackdayguy said:
All quite normal. The advice above is spot on.
I wouldn't worry too much about the silver retaining nut they come loose after a short drive. Its not really that important.
Er just to clarify .... that's the nut on the wishbone end not the upright!I wouldn't worry too much about the silver retaining nut they come loose after a short drive. Its not really that important.
At the wishbone end if the locknut is working loose add a tiny amount of Loctite, it's better to have it in place to prevent any small movement of the rod-end in the wishbone and the ingress of moisture.
Trackdayguy said:
I wouldn't worry too much about the silver retaining nut they come loose after a short drive. Its not really that important.
Dangerously awful advice. The locknut shouldnt be left loose under any circumstances. Apart from the random castor changes it will produce, it can quickly damage the wishbone and mounts.analog_me said:
One more thing, do you remember how many degrees of camber is one full turn of the rod end?
One full turn of the top balljoint is 0.25 of a degree. They are standard thread not handed, so turning each clockwise will effectively shorten the distance and increase the amount of negative camber. I've never had the locknut undo so make sure it is all nipped up afterwards.
Daz
sfaulds said:
Trackdayguy said:
I wouldn't worry too much about the silver retaining nut they come loose after a short drive. Its not really that important.
Dangerously awful advice. The locknut shouldnt be left loose under any circumstances. Apart from the random castor changes it will produce, it can quickly damage the wishbone and mounts.I can see that it could stress the threads, better to be safe than sorry as they say. I guess loctite is sound advice.
These look pretty trick:
https://www.compbrake.com/product/caterham-suspens...
These look pretty trick:
https://www.compbrake.com/product/caterham-suspens...
Edited by Trackdayguy on Friday 26th October 15:05
Trackdayguy said:
I can see that it could stress the threads, better to be safe than sorry as they say. I guess loctite is sound advice.
These look pretty trick:
https://www.compbrake.com/product/caterham-suspens...
Someone have try those Rod ends? Is that correct for an Imperial car?These look pretty trick:
https://www.compbrake.com/product/caterham-suspens...
Edited by Trackdayguy on Friday 26th October 15:05
Gassing Station | Caterham | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff