caterham cooling problems

caterham cooling problems

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SimonC123

Original Poster:

5 posts

88 months

Sunday 4th June 2017
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I have recently bought a 2013 caterham 1.4 k series. The coolant temperature is all over the place. Some of the time it will go under 80 degrees – which to me is too cold, but the fan will also always be on when the temp goes above 80 degrees, which means the fan is on at least 90% of the time. Within one long run, going at the same speed and with the engine under the same amount of load, the temperature can vary between 80 and around 105 degrees. The fan stops it from going any higher than the approx figure of 105 degrees when idling.
I bought the car in March. All was well until I recklessly pulled the lever to make heat come out of the heater and then it over-heated horribly. Being under warranty for 3 months the car went back to oakmere where I bought it from. I told them I thought it was an air lock, they refilled it with coolant but the problem was still there. After that they replaced the thermostat and put in a new radiator and I now have it back but with the current and slightly different problems mentioned above. I have a few days warranty left but I don’t think the garage actually know what is wrong – do any of you guys know? Any help would be hugely appreciated.

ikarl

3,739 posts

205 months

Sunday 4th June 2017
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They refilled it with coolant? Where did the old stuff go? Possible head gasket issue?

BobSaunders

3,041 posts

161 months

Sunday 4th June 2017
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SimonC123 said:
I have a few days warranty left but I don’t think the garage actually know what is wrong – do any of you guys know? Any help would be hugely appreciated.
Straight back to the dealer. I would be ringing them tomorrow - It's under warranty.

MethylatedSpirit

1,924 posts

142 months

Sunday 4th June 2017
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Coolant level isn't decreasing?

Checked for Mayo like deposits in the coolant expansion tank or oil?

If there is Mayonnaise like substance in the coolant or oil, then it's head gasket time (£700). If it's low milage, there is a chance the HG has never been done before. A new MLS gasket will cure the problem for life. Make sure to get it done at somewhere specialising in K series. Also replace water pump at same time if this is getting done.

Could be the waterpump slipping on the shaft, which can be intermittent. When it's overheating, check the top hose for the radiator. It should be friggin roasting. Also check that heat comes out the heaters (if it has them!). Either of them being cold would point to a lack of circulation in the cooling system (waterpump)


Edited by MethylatedSpirit on Sunday 4th June 22:25

SimonC123

Original Poster:

5 posts

88 months

Sunday 4th June 2017
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Am concerned about head gasket but no signs it’s gone just yet. I agree the water pump could be at fault. My limited knowledge thinks it’s either the thermostat (which has just been replaced so very unlikely), an air lock (which I think was the problem when I first pulled the lever to get heat from the heater but is probably not the problem with my latest symptoms) or indeed the water pump.
The only other thing I thought is whether the outlet from the radiator is cool enough to close the thermostat and cause these symptoms as the radiator is then not being used all the time. I hear you can buy a kit that has a thermostat on the inlet pipe into the radiator. Any thoughts? I appreciate all your comments.

SimonC123

Original Poster:

5 posts

88 months

Sunday 4th June 2017
quotequote all
Soz, should of said. It's not losing coolant at the moment.

james_gt3rs

4,816 posts

197 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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Could be an airlock?

Krikkit

26,919 posts

187 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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Sounds like an airlock to me, aren't the K series a bh to bleed properly, even before a non-OEM coolant system?

Going hot/cold on the gauge sounds like the airlock moving around and sometimes obscuring the temp sensors, causing odd readings.

Either way I'd take it back to the dealer until it's resolved.

kambites

68,185 posts

227 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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Krikkit said:
Sounds like an airlock to me, aren't the K series a bh to bleed properly, even before a non-OEM coolant system?
yes That'd be my guess too. Either that or your thermostat is sticking somehow.

First question would be what the rating of the thermostat is meant to be; that will tell you what temperature it should be running at. I think K-series thermostats value from about 80 to about 90 degrees on different cars so depending on what's fitted, 80 may not be too cold.

Edited by kambites on Monday 5th June 12:41

super7

2,002 posts

214 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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Heater?

That's the problem for a start.... Get rid of the heater..... what do you want that for anyway? Excessive weight! Wear another pair of socks!

Bleeding a K-Series, you need to jack the front end up and fill it so the cap is the highest point of the engine....


kambites

68,185 posts

227 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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super7 said:
Bleeding a K-Series, you need to jack the front end up and fill it so the cap is the highest point of the engine....
Or pressure bleed it, which is arguably a more reliable solution.

SimonC123

Original Poster:

5 posts

88 months

Monday 5th June 2017
quotequote all
Think it will have to go back to the garage. The slight worry there though is that I won’t have any time left within the warranty period to use it and see if the head gasket has gone or not. If it shows its first signs of going after my three months is up (in a few days time) then I’ll have a big bill heading my way.
Not sure what the temp rating of the thermostat is. Will look into that. What’s pressure bleeding?

kambites

68,185 posts

227 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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Pressure bleeding is when you apply significant positive pressure to the coolant tank and then release the bleed screws. You have to keep the expansion tank topped up, obviously, so it's a bit of a faff. I fabricated a setup to do it by drilling a hole in a space expansion tank lid and gluing a tyre valve into it; then connecting it to my compressor via a pressure regulator set to about 0.5 BAR.

Head gasket replacement isn't actually that expensive. I think I paid £400-500 for mine (on an Elise) including a belt change (which was due anyway). Obviously if the head isn't sound or the stud heights are wrong it might cost a bit more.

Edited by kambites on Monday 5th June 13:35

Krikkit

26,919 posts

187 months

Monday 5th June 2017
quotequote all
kambites said:
Head gasket replacement isn't actually that expensive. I think I paid £400-500 for mine (on an Elise) including a belt change (which was due anyway). Obviously if the head isn't sound or the stud heights are wrong it might cost a bit more.
I bet it would be a quicker job on a Caterfield where engine access is an absolute doddle as well.

kambites

68,185 posts

227 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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Krikkit said:
kambites said:
Head gasket replacement isn't actually that expensive. I think I paid £400-500 for mine (on an Elise) including a belt change (which was due anyway). Obviously if the head isn't sound or the stud heights are wrong it might cost a bit more.
I bet it would be a quicker job on a Caterfield where engine access is an absolute doddle as well.
I'd imagine it'd be more pleasant, certainly. It's not quite worth taking the clam off on the Elise in terms of time but it certainly makes it a much more pleasant job.

DKL

4,590 posts

228 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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look at fitting a prrt. I found it made quite a difference to stable running temps

_Neal_

2,749 posts

225 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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kambites said:
Pressure bleeding is when you apply significant positive pressure to the coolant tank and then release the bleed screws. You have to keep the expansion tank topped up, obviously, so it's a bit of a faff. I fabricated a setup to do it by drilling a hole in a space expansion tank lid and gluing a tyre valve into it; then connecting it to my compressor via a pressure regulator set to about 0.5 BAR.
A Gunson eezibleed may be a possible solution - basically does the above I think, using pressure from a spare wheel. I stand to be corrected of course.

OP - I'd get it back to the garage and if they can't fix it have them take it to a specialist.

Plate spinner

17,937 posts

206 months

Monday 5th June 2017
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Krikkit said:
Sounds like an airlock to me, aren't the K series a bh to bleed properly, even before a non-OEM coolant system?

Going hot/cold on the gauge sounds like the airlock moving around and sometimes obscuring the temp sensors, causing odd readings.

Either way I'd take it back to the dealer until it's resolved.
Yeah, they are a bh. Ended up hooking the front of mine up at 45 degrees. Just got to keep 'massaging those hoses'...

SimonC123

Original Poster:

5 posts

88 months

Monday 5th June 2017
quotequote all
Thanks for everybody's help. Car is booked back in at the garage. Will hope head gasket doesn't start doing dodgy things when get it back.
Somebody mentioned a'prrt' - what's that?

kambites

68,185 posts

227 months

Tuesday 6th June 2017
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A PRRT is a Pressure Release Remote Thermostat.

https://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/84/207/pr... (not sure if that'll fit a Caterham).

It's basically a second cooling circuit which brings down the pressure differential on the intake and outtake sides of the engine when the pump is trying to circulate more water than the radiator can cope with, speeding up the flow of coolant through the engine. It doesn't reduce overall engine temperature significantly but it does help to equalise temperature variance across the engine (which is what causes the head gasket to fail).

Edited by kambites on Tuesday 6th June 06:36