Sigma 150 tps voltage without mbe lead
Discussion
Yes you can use a multimeter. I believe it is the White/Slate wire on the TPS sub loom. You need to set it to 1.03v or 1.04v depending on who you ask.
You'll need about 5 hands though to hold the multimeter probes while turning and simultaneously tightening the TPS. It is far better to use the cable and software. Much less faff and you'll be setting it to the value that the ECU is actually reporting rather than what your multimeter interprets the voltage as.
My advice would be to buy the cable. I use mine 3 or 4 times a year and it is useful for so much more than just the initial TPS setup. Particularly with your conversion project you're going to want to check various things along the way.
You'll need about 5 hands though to hold the multimeter probes while turning and simultaneously tightening the TPS. It is far better to use the cable and software. Much less faff and you'll be setting it to the value that the ECU is actually reporting rather than what your multimeter interprets the voltage as.
My advice would be to buy the cable. I use mine 3 or 4 times a year and it is useful for so much more than just the initial TPS setup. Particularly with your conversion project you're going to want to check various things along the way.
Cheers for the advice, Ive just managed to set the TPS to 1.4v, the white wire gave the reading.
The car now runs and revs without cutting out,
My cold idle is 1050 -1100 rpm though, does that drop once its warm? if so do you set tps with car warm or cold?
I cant warm the engine up yet as the rad has a bloody hole in it
The car now runs and revs without cutting out,
My cold idle is 1050 -1100 rpm though, does that drop once its warm? if so do you set tps with car warm or cold?
I cant warm the engine up yet as the rad has a bloody hole in it
Make all settings with the engine warm.
Setting the idle TPS voltage of course requires that you first have the correct idle dialled in. The 150 was mapped with idle settings of 950rpm and 1.04v. So it is possible that your TPS may be set marginally too low/lean once you knock the idle screw back a bit. The revs probably will settle down when it warms up so wait until you can run it up to temperature properly.
Here is the process I follow..
1) Set the TPS voltage very low - something like 0.9v. This ensures you can run the engine and move the idle screw about without the interference of the ECU thinking it needs to add fuel.
2) Balance the throttle bodies and set the idle speed to 950rpm. Useful if you have easimap because it will report the exact number rather than the rough approximation from your tacho needle. With the engine set like this you should see ~4.5 kg/hour on your synchrometer into each cylinder.
3) Set the TPS voltage to 1.04v
4) Double check you've still got 950rpm / 4.5kg/hour
Setting the idle TPS voltage of course requires that you first have the correct idle dialled in. The 150 was mapped with idle settings of 950rpm and 1.04v. So it is possible that your TPS may be set marginally too low/lean once you knock the idle screw back a bit. The revs probably will settle down when it warms up so wait until you can run it up to temperature properly.
Here is the process I follow..
1) Set the TPS voltage very low - something like 0.9v. This ensures you can run the engine and move the idle screw about without the interference of the ECU thinking it needs to add fuel.
2) Balance the throttle bodies and set the idle speed to 950rpm. Useful if you have easimap because it will report the exact number rather than the rough approximation from your tacho needle. With the engine set like this you should see ~4.5 kg/hour on your synchrometer into each cylinder.
3) Set the TPS voltage to 1.04v
4) Double check you've still got 950rpm / 4.5kg/hour
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