Talk to me about chassis types.
Discussion
So what's it all about.
Arch/Other?
Imperial/metric?
Wide track, does it fit both/all
Date of change overs
Are 'R' spec chassis different?
Engine fitment, does it matter what engine fits what chassis?
What cages fit what chassis?
Oh and what one does the diff actually fit in...
Any infomation would be great.
Arch/Other?
Imperial/metric?
Wide track, does it fit both/all
Date of change overs
Are 'R' spec chassis different?
Engine fitment, does it matter what engine fits what chassis?
What cages fit what chassis?
Oh and what one does the diff actually fit in...
Any infomation would be great.
Too many questions - you could write a book on this, in fact, Chris Rees has done it (The Magnificent 7).
Seriously though, the Caterham has evolved over a very long period an there a just too many subtle changes for anyone to give you an a definitive history and answers about what will fit what.
Buts as a start, the metric chassis tends to be associated with the Ford engines and is MIG welded rather than brazed like imperial chassis. There is quite a lot of compatibility between the two, but the devil is in the detail. Most would agree that the imperial chassis is better made, but the metric is a little more comprehensive and possibly more rigid (time to leave . . .
)
Seriously though, the Caterham has evolved over a very long period an there a just too many subtle changes for anyone to give you an a definitive history and answers about what will fit what.
Buts as a start, the metric chassis tends to be associated with the Ford engines and is MIG welded rather than brazed like imperial chassis. There is quite a lot of compatibility between the two, but the devil is in the detail. Most would agree that the imperial chassis is better made, but the metric is a little more comprehensive and possibly more rigid (time to leave . . .
)Hoonabator said:
So what's it all about.
Arch/Other? Arch are nicer,hand made,brazed joints.
Imperial/metric? Imperial Arch, Metrick welded by robots, and lazer cut.
Wide track, does it fit both/all Yes, but some chassis mods req'd on early arch chassis, but Arch can mod it for you.
Date of change overs Imperial to metric, just after the marketing boys took over in 2005. Chassis changed over about 2006/7 IIRC.
Are 'R' spec chassis different? No.
Engine fitment, does it matter what engine fits what chassis? Some change over chassis had mounts for K, and Ford/Duratec engines. But you can get mounts to put a Ford engine in a K car.
What cages fit what chassis? Late Imperial and metric are Caged. Most later chassis have the mounts for S/light, roadsport cages under the sideskin.
Oh and what one does the diff actually fit in... None of them! But the Arch chassis seem to transmit less noise, and the bolts are easier to get in. Can't comment on the pig iron BMW unit though.
Any infomation would be great.
Edited with answers/oppinions. Hope that answers a few of your questions. Arch/Other? Arch are nicer,hand made,brazed joints.
Imperial/metric? Imperial Arch, Metrick welded by robots, and lazer cut.
Wide track, does it fit both/all Yes, but some chassis mods req'd on early arch chassis, but Arch can mod it for you.
Date of change overs Imperial to metric, just after the marketing boys took over in 2005. Chassis changed over about 2006/7 IIRC.
Are 'R' spec chassis different? No.
Engine fitment, does it matter what engine fits what chassis? Some change over chassis had mounts for K, and Ford/Duratec engines. But you can get mounts to put a Ford engine in a K car.
What cages fit what chassis? Late Imperial and metric are Caged. Most later chassis have the mounts for S/light, roadsport cages under the sideskin.
Oh and what one does the diff actually fit in... None of them! But the Arch chassis seem to transmit less noise, and the bolts are easier to get in. Can't comment on the pig iron BMW unit though.
Any infomation would be great.
Disclaimer.
I stand to be corrected by pedants.
Difficult balance for Caterham cars nowadays, With new customers coming along purchasing a pretty ancient sports car design then expecting it to be quite as an MX5 mechanically. Your hip is inches away from spinning cogs and shafts what do people expect. Yes you can build a diff to be quieter but not that much
mickrick said:
I think switching to the BMW unit was an attempt at that, and the Ford units drying up.
Quaiffe now make a brand new Sierra unit, but I suppose cost was an issue.
I find it suprising that a basic "It doesn't fit" can't be sorted out at the jig stage whilst building the chassis. Quaiffe now make a brand new Sierra unit, but I suppose cost was an issue.
Nothing to do with noisey diffs nothing wrong with real mechnical noise, purely the fact that people are forcing the diffs into the chassis. Can't be right can it.
Yes totally agree if a large lump hammer is needed to drive the long through bolt across the top of the diff and through the two metallastic bushes.Then the jig needs re jiging, If i was building again I would consider exploring a fix by pushing the top bolt through one bush and across the diff top then have a look to see where the other bush is out of line then cut the offending box through two or three sides with a hack saw then spring it into the correct position bolt through then tig weld the cut up, Then replace rear baulkhead panel, And then see if it transfers less diff noise
I don't know if it's been sorted, but I heard horror stories about the first Metric chassis, where folks where grinding a taper at the start of the bolt, and drifting it in with a hammer. Pre-load on the bushes is bound to transmit more noise.
But as has been said, it's a noisey car. For me that's part of the experience.
The clonking goes away once you get used to the car and become smoother with the throttle, and the wining doesn't bother me. I won't hear it on my new car anyway, as I'm fitting a S/C box.
I know folks also had problems fitting the diff to the earlier Arch cars, but not as bad as the later metric chassis.
But saying that, I have one of the last Arch chassis, which I ordered special just as they where starting the Metric ones (2007) and I fitted the Sierra diff just as the manual says, and I had no problem at all doing it on my own. No bashing, just a bit of grease, and a tap with a soft head mallet.
The afair with the BMW unit and subframe is a bit of a botch IMO, to do that properly, they should have done a re-design on the chassis mounts. Or used the new Quaife units, and carried on with the Nearn's explaination of noise. TADTS!
But as has been said, it's a noisey car. For me that's part of the experience.
The clonking goes away once you get used to the car and become smoother with the throttle, and the wining doesn't bother me. I won't hear it on my new car anyway, as I'm fitting a S/C box.
I know folks also had problems fitting the diff to the earlier Arch cars, but not as bad as the later metric chassis.
But saying that, I have one of the last Arch chassis, which I ordered special just as they where starting the Metric ones (2007) and I fitted the Sierra diff just as the manual says, and I had no problem at all doing it on my own. No bashing, just a bit of grease, and a tap with a soft head mallet.
The afair with the BMW unit and subframe is a bit of a botch IMO, to do that properly, they should have done a re-design on the chassis mounts. Or used the new Quaife units, and carried on with the Nearn's explaination of noise. TADTS!
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