Fitting lowered floors & side panels - how hard can it be
Discussion
My newly acquired track car is in need of a cosmetic overhaul and getting head below the rollbar will need lowered floors .....
So is this a job I can happily tackle in the comfort of my own garage, I'm handy on the tools so not overly concerned, just interested to hear others views. Don't want to part with hard earned which can be better spent on other things rather than paid out in labour charge to Arch or others.
This isn't a restoration, just a tidy up, new side panels, new nose, wings and scuttle etc but it remains a track car and not a show room example. . . ..
Anyone done it themselves?
So is this a job I can happily tackle in the comfort of my own garage, I'm handy on the tools so not overly concerned, just interested to hear others views. Don't want to part with hard earned which can be better spent on other things rather than paid out in labour charge to Arch or others.
This isn't a restoration, just a tidy up, new side panels, new nose, wings and scuttle etc but it remains a track car and not a show room example. . . ..
Anyone done it themselves?
Lowered floors are supposed to be fairly easy, just drill out the rivets and rivet on the new panels. Apparently it is a good idea to put plenty of waxoyl throug the holes to prevent rust and stop all the rivet heads rattling
The side panels are much more difficult, there is a welded join each side where they meet the back panel, so it's a specialist job.
The side panels are much more difficult, there is a welded join each side where they meet the back panel, so it's a specialist job.
downsman said:
The side panels are much more difficult, there is a welded join each side where they meet the back panel, so it's a specialist job.
Aaaahhhh, thanks, that does make it somewhat more difficult . . . Will have to investigate further. Seems Arch is very expensive, any other recommendations ?If its for the track then i wouldnt bother doing the small weld just at the roll cage socket either side, its cosmetic and only 25mm or so long.
It would be easier if you have access to a ramp, or can jack it up quite a bit on one side ofcourse properly up on stands in a couple of places as you have to get the car off the ground at least the length of the drill + 4.5mm bit!. I put my floor in on a bead of sikaflex as an attempt to prevent water getting in.
Both floor and sides are easily do-able, get a ramp and youll have them done in a few hours, if not it might take you a little longer.Good luck.
It would be easier if you have access to a ramp, or can jack it up quite a bit on one side ofcourse properly up on stands in a couple of places as you have to get the car off the ground at least the length of the drill + 4.5mm bit!. I put my floor in on a bead of sikaflex as an attempt to prevent water getting in.
Both floor and sides are easily do-able, get a ramp and youll have them done in a few hours, if not it might take you a little longer.Good luck.
Thanks guys, that's helped a lot. The pictures especially as the car and i are not in the same country currently, but it'll get to Paris in a couple of weeks.
As it's a 2008 chassis, hopefully it'll have the later body panels and then a 25mm weld will not prove an issue and I shall do the work myself.
Perhaps once the engine is out it will be easier to orientate to work on.
Thanks again .... I'll let you know how I get on.
As it's a 2008 chassis, hopefully it'll have the later body panels and then a 25mm weld will not prove an issue and I shall do the work myself.
Perhaps once the engine is out it will be easier to orientate to work on.
Thanks again .... I'll let you know how I get on.
Johno said:
Thanks guys, that's helped a lot. The pictures especially as the car and i are not in the same country currently, but it'll get to Paris in a couple of weeks.
As it's a 2008 chassis, hopefully it'll have the later body panels and then a 25mm weld will not prove an issue and I shall do the work myself.
Perhaps once the engine is out it will be easier to orientate to work on.
Thanks again .... I'll let you know how I get on.
If your into caterhams and handy with tools its a pretty good job to undertake......with the engine out you may be able to put the car on some tressles i.e higher up.As it's a 2008 chassis, hopefully it'll have the later body panels and then a 25mm weld will not prove an issue and I shall do the work myself.
Perhaps once the engine is out it will be easier to orientate to work on.
Thanks again .... I'll let you know how I get on.
As for the chassis, i found the pics here:
http://www.scalereplica.com/workbench/car-sub-menu...
A winter project in smaller form as previously spotted!!
Thanks Jeremy and thanks for the previous advice and discussions, I got offered something that fitted the spec and budget I had and it just needs some tlc and a bit more power, being an SV, me being 18 stone dressed, with Vicki in the car as well I struggled to just over 3min laps of Spa, new car to me and all the other excuses aside, a K1.6 is a little underpowered up Kemmel, so superlight or not, it's struggling. I'm going to stick with the K though for a while and see what happens after a couple of seasons of fun, but I need to liven it up a bit so engine plans are in the offing ... Cosmetics as well because I'm a tart.
Classic Grad 98 said:
There's a second weld on the side skin which is behind the rear lower wishbone mounting point.
If you're going to bother to replace the skins at all, you may as well do it 'properly', I doubt ARCH will supply you with the panel anyway.
Please be assured CG98, that any work will be completed 'properly', as that's how I like my cars to be maintained.If you're going to bother to replace the skins at all, you may as well do it 'properly', I doubt ARCH will supply you with the panel anyway.
Can you expand on your comment regarding Arch, are they less than forthcoming on supply of panels?
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