Caterham electricals...
Discussion
Who's replaced the loom on their 7, or done a major tidying job, and how have you got on with it? I'm tempted to switch to breakers and marine cables given the problems I've had with failing headlights, indicators, starter motors brakelights you name it. (don't worry casual readers, it's a ropey 1994 ex-racecar that's been driven in all weathers so it's due a tidy, not shoddily built!) The interesting angle though, is that I'm rather green when it comes to electrics, so I'm interested in off the shelf solutions too, or companies that build bespoke looms.
If not messed with, with respect to reliability there's not a lot wrong with the standard loom. I've just rebuilt the engine loom on mine using the correct original connectors and wiring - all available from the likes of Polevolt etc. Biggest reliability nightmares are usually because someone's used connectors more suited to installing a cheap car radio rather than the correctly crimped connectors using a proper tool - all fairly inexpensive.
Harry - that is a lovely job, thanks for sharing the pictures. Did you do it yourself? Who supplied the cables? Did you just continue to order what you needed via mail order, or did you get a list in advance and stock up beforehand?
V7 - rebuilding the original loom eh.. I take it this is a job that can be done relatively easily if you're methodical? Are there any links on Blatchat or on anyone's website, that assisted you? How did you order what you needed/make your list?
V7 - rebuilding the original loom eh.. I take it this is a job that can be done relatively easily if you're methodical? Are there any links on Blatchat or on anyone's website, that assisted you? How did you order what you needed/make your list?
Chris - my car had actually had the engine loom dismantled and re-routed around the outside of the engine bay with various wires then running in for the senders etc - effectively the way many cars were wired years ago. Some owners prefer this method enabling engine removal without an engine loom, I don't. I found fault-finding difficult because it no longer had a suitable wiring diagram that was a good reference .... and some colours didn't add up - the final straw was when I was left stranded due to a wire falling out of the connector to the inertia switch!
The engine's been out so I asked on BC for wiring diagrams and got loads. It was then fairly straightforward to remove the suspect wiring from the car, unwrap everything and re-assemble it into an engine loom - made easier of course with the engine on a stand. I had to replace a number of cables and added in wires for anything that I thought I might need - correct colour coding of course because I'm fussy like that! All the info is readily available on-line but mail me if you need anything (mine's a K). I bought a good pair of crimpers from Car Builder Solutions and connectors & cable from Polevolt - not the pre-insulated "red" type but the same type as originally used in the loom which IMHO are perfectly up to the job and if crimped properly will last a long time. These connectors cannot be re-used or crimped without the correct tool ..... which is probably why most wiring faults occur after being messed with.
I was satisfied enough with my early results that I then set about replacing practically every connection to ensure all joints were clean and durable and not suffering from oxidation or carbon build-up from arcing. Simply put, the various Caterham looms were designed by professional contractors with far more experience in wiring than probably 99% of owners - why not simply correct and renew where necessary!
Stu.
The engine's been out so I asked on BC for wiring diagrams and got loads. It was then fairly straightforward to remove the suspect wiring from the car, unwrap everything and re-assemble it into an engine loom - made easier of course with the engine on a stand. I had to replace a number of cables and added in wires for anything that I thought I might need - correct colour coding of course because I'm fussy like that! All the info is readily available on-line but mail me if you need anything (mine's a K). I bought a good pair of crimpers from Car Builder Solutions and connectors & cable from Polevolt - not the pre-insulated "red" type but the same type as originally used in the loom which IMHO are perfectly up to the job and if crimped properly will last a long time. These connectors cannot be re-used or crimped without the correct tool ..... which is probably why most wiring faults occur after being messed with.
I was satisfied enough with my early results that I then set about replacing practically every connection to ensure all joints were clean and durable and not suffering from oxidation or carbon build-up from arcing. Simply put, the various Caterham looms were designed by professional contractors with far more experience in wiring than probably 99% of owners - why not simply correct and renew where necessary!
Stu.
I agree with Stu,
You need to decide if you want a modular loom, in case of the Cat, in fact a seperate engine loom with one connector, or a wrap around loom.
I have a wrap around loom, but for my Ultima, I'm using a modular loom, because there ar real modules to make. (front clip with lights, rear clip with lights, etc.)
I find it the easiest to make an Excel spreadsheet, where you start with the signals or input and point where they go. (lightsignal switch, goes to lightrelaisinput, Power goes to lightrelais, output lightrelais goes to LH rearbulb,LH frontbulb, etc. etc.)
With this spreadsheet it is an easy job to lay it out on the car.
All the sleeves and endcaps come from Raychem, and seal off the loom and connectors from water entry. The endsleeves have glue inside which makes it waterproof.
I also solder every connector after crimping. And as Stu says, take the right tools.
I got about 3 different crimping tools to do the job.
You need to decide if you want a modular loom, in case of the Cat, in fact a seperate engine loom with one connector, or a wrap around loom.
I have a wrap around loom, but for my Ultima, I'm using a modular loom, because there ar real modules to make. (front clip with lights, rear clip with lights, etc.)
I find it the easiest to make an Excel spreadsheet, where you start with the signals or input and point where they go. (lightsignal switch, goes to lightrelaisinput, Power goes to lightrelais, output lightrelais goes to LH rearbulb,LH frontbulb, etc. etc.)
With this spreadsheet it is an easy job to lay it out on the car.
All the sleeves and endcaps come from Raychem, and seal off the loom and connectors from water entry. The endsleeves have glue inside which makes it waterproof.
I also solder every connector after crimping. And as Stu says, take the right tools.
I got about 3 different crimping tools to do the job.
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