Xflow 1700 ignition issues
Discussion
Me and my mate just finished rebuilding his engine after it went bang 8 months ago, fitted, plumbed and wired ok (we thought), and we ain't got a spark.
Multi-metered it and we are getting 12V at the +coil but nothing at the bulk resistor.
We changed the coil and the amplifier but no change. Starting to think distributor but want another opinion before he has to go get a new one.
Multi-metered it and we are getting 12V at the +coil but nothing at the bulk resistor.
We changed the coil and the amplifier but no change. Starting to think distributor but want another opinion before he has to go get a new one.
Megajolt transformed my 1.7 Supersprint X-flow 7
Here is my quick guide. I've had mine running for nearly 4 years now and it is a great upgrade, the car is so much more tractable and I suspect the fuel economy is somewhat better too.
Jon
1) Megajolt boxed ECU ready built. I got this from Martin Millener, he is UK based and does an excellent job of building it up and supplying all the bits ready to go with very clear instructions and free advice. (martin@millener.com) Much easier than ordering from the states and often cheaper (they charge more for making it by the time you've added postage and possibly import duty than he does). Mine was about £90.
2) 36-1 Trigger Wheel for the front of the crank. I bought mine from a guy called Bill Shurvington for £20 but I don't think he does them anymore. These days, ebay, trigger-wheels.com or Weber Alpha bits. May also get Omex bits (possibly) from Vulcan Engineering.
3) Ford Crank Position Sensor. I bought a small neat looking one from ebay for £9. I think pretty much anyone (from Ford) will do but the bracket will need fabricating accordingly.
4) Crank Position Sensor Bracket. A friend of mine measured this up on a x-flow he had on his garage floor and had a couple of plates welded together to make it. The easier (but more expensive option than 2+3+4) is to buy the off the shelf bolt on Weber Alpha Trigger Wheel & Sensor pack. I found Southern Carbs give the best price on most Weber Alpha bits.
5) Throttle Position Sensor: I bought the Weber one (about £50) as it bolts straight on the DCOEs from Southern Carbs. There are cheaper solutions from trigger-wheels.com but lilely to be more fiddly / less relaible. If you get the Weber ojne make sure you ask them to chuck in the connectors.
6) EDIS 4 unit, Coil Pack and HT leads. These will come most cheaply from a 90's Ford 4 cylinder petrol scrapper. Otherwise ebay / trigger-wheels.com. If you want new HT leads, the best ones seem to come from a 1989 Ford Fiesta 1.1 Carb car. Make sure you get the EDIS plug connector and Coil Pack connector.
7) Distributor Blanking Plate. Best to take the Dizzy out and blank it off. www.mra-minis.co.uk do one for a A+ series mini engine for peanuts that fits perfectly with the old dizzy clamp.
The easy option Weber Throttle position sensor (Page 31) and crank position sensor packs - replacing parts 2, 3 & 4 above (Page 71) are listed here http://www.tecno2.com/webroot/downloads/catalogo_w...
Here is my quick guide. I've had mine running for nearly 4 years now and it is a great upgrade, the car is so much more tractable and I suspect the fuel economy is somewhat better too.
Jon
1) Megajolt boxed ECU ready built. I got this from Martin Millener, he is UK based and does an excellent job of building it up and supplying all the bits ready to go with very clear instructions and free advice. (martin@millener.com) Much easier than ordering from the states and often cheaper (they charge more for making it by the time you've added postage and possibly import duty than he does). Mine was about £90.
2) 36-1 Trigger Wheel for the front of the crank. I bought mine from a guy called Bill Shurvington for £20 but I don't think he does them anymore. These days, ebay, trigger-wheels.com or Weber Alpha bits. May also get Omex bits (possibly) from Vulcan Engineering.
3) Ford Crank Position Sensor. I bought a small neat looking one from ebay for £9. I think pretty much anyone (from Ford) will do but the bracket will need fabricating accordingly.
4) Crank Position Sensor Bracket. A friend of mine measured this up on a x-flow he had on his garage floor and had a couple of plates welded together to make it. The easier (but more expensive option than 2+3+4) is to buy the off the shelf bolt on Weber Alpha Trigger Wheel & Sensor pack. I found Southern Carbs give the best price on most Weber Alpha bits.
5) Throttle Position Sensor: I bought the Weber one (about £50) as it bolts straight on the DCOEs from Southern Carbs. There are cheaper solutions from trigger-wheels.com but lilely to be more fiddly / less relaible. If you get the Weber ojne make sure you ask them to chuck in the connectors.
6) EDIS 4 unit, Coil Pack and HT leads. These will come most cheaply from a 90's Ford 4 cylinder petrol scrapper. Otherwise ebay / trigger-wheels.com. If you want new HT leads, the best ones seem to come from a 1989 Ford Fiesta 1.1 Carb car. Make sure you get the EDIS plug connector and Coil Pack connector.
7) Distributor Blanking Plate. Best to take the Dizzy out and blank it off. www.mra-minis.co.uk do one for a A+ series mini engine for peanuts that fits perfectly with the old dizzy clamp.
The easy option Weber Throttle position sensor (Page 31) and crank position sensor packs - replacing parts 2, 3 & 4 above (Page 71) are listed here http://www.tecno2.com/webroot/downloads/catalogo_w...
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