VHT engine paint
Discussion
stingray01 said:
Hi V8D. How do I contact real steel to see if they have the paint. have you their web site etc. tried via google and it was bringing up rock bands and jewellery!!
Yeah, they dont really do websites and stuff, and their catalog is a heap of photocopies with a nail banged through the corner !
They are top guys though and carry huge stocks of Chevy, Ford and Mopar performance stuff, and they really know their stuff. Have used them for years, for Rover V8 parts and GMV8
Give them a bell on 01895 440505 Good luck !!
Try Frost Automotive. I've found a brush on engine enamel and Chevy Orange is listed. Here's the link to the product: Engine Paint
If you're going for originality - shouldn't a '77 have Chevy Blue though?
If you're going for originality - shouldn't a '77 have Chevy Blue though?
Thanks v. much for the info. spot on and just what I was after.My digit made a misprint, my vette is a 76 and not 77. I'm led to believe that the engine and tin covers were painted orange. Hope this is the right info. as I want to keep it original all round. By the way does anyone know how to get the standard factory alloys up to a gleaming finish. Rims are in excellent nick, very slight edge kerbing on 2 of the rims. there is no laquer on them. Tried brasso,gets them up quite good, but could be a regular cleaning job with brasso. Any advice appreciated
More than welcome mate. You're right - Orange is correct for a '76. You'll need a spray paint to get the rocker covers nice though. I bought mine from Eastwood company but I think Frost took over their UK sales. Might be worth ringing them and asking if they can help.
Regarding the wheels : If you really weant them nice, best thing is to buy a polishing kit. Get the mops that fit into a drill for ease of use on wheels. Most are for bench grinders so wouldn't be very good for wheels. If they are a bit rough, then you can rub them back first with wet or dry and plenty of water. I use 1500 grit then finish with 2000 grit which can be bought from a good paint factor such as Hickley Valtone or similar. 3M is a good 2000 grit paper. Keep going until the metal is perfectly smooth then use the polishing kit and finish with autoglym. They'll come up like chrome if you take you're time and do it right. If they are in good condition already you can go straigth to the poilshing kit. This should see you right: Frost wheel polishing kit
Regarding the wheels : If you really weant them nice, best thing is to buy a polishing kit. Get the mops that fit into a drill for ease of use on wheels. Most are for bench grinders so wouldn't be very good for wheels. If they are a bit rough, then you can rub them back first with wet or dry and plenty of water. I use 1500 grit then finish with 2000 grit which can be bought from a good paint factor such as Hickley Valtone or similar. 3M is a good 2000 grit paper. Keep going until the metal is perfectly smooth then use the polishing kit and finish with autoglym. They'll come up like chrome if you take you're time and do it right. If they are in good condition already you can go straigth to the poilshing kit. This should see you right: Frost wheel polishing kit
thanks yellowvette. You've saved me a lot of shopping round on the net to find the gear I'm after. Regards the wheels on the car, they're 95% smooth exept for the wheel recesses, but can't imagine they will come up like the faces of the wheels. I,m dreading taking off the rocker covers to paint as I had a pig of a job to get them to seal properly last time they were off. i'm giving the chassis some paint treatment whilst I'm about it, what would you recommend? At the moment it is grease/paraffin mix treatment, chassis, springs etc.
Thanks.
Thanks.
I haven't used chassis paint myself as I had Corvette Kingdom take care of the chassis on mine. I would again refer you to Frost though. Here's a link to a POR15 chassis painting kit, I've heard good things about POR15. Chassis painting kit
The inner recesses on the wheels are not supposed to be shiny. They should be black for originality, but they also look good when matched to the body colour IMHO, which is what I did on my '77 that I had years ago.
Frost are probably the first place to look for any restoration stuff and special paints.
The inner recesses on the wheels are not supposed to be shiny. They should be black for originality, but they also look good when matched to the body colour IMHO, which is what I did on my '77 that I had years ago.
Frost are probably the first place to look for any restoration stuff and special paints.
No problem mate. I see you are fairly local, why not come along to a SW Corvette Club meeting sometime. We meet at the Sidcot Arms on the A38 between Burnham and Bristol on the first Tuesday of the month, and have a great time. We often get a big turn out too, it's surprising how many Vette owners there are in the area. They're a great bunch of people. I've sold my Vette now and put down a deposit on a Countach, but I'll still be at almost every SW CCCUK meeting as they're my friends now, and I never want to lose contact with them. Come to a meeting - you won't regret it and will be made very welcome. All being well I'll be taking my new Countach to the June meeting, can't wait 
I will come to the meets for sure. I'm just going through everything on the old gal. Wheel arches, underneath etc. Once that is done, hopefully a couple of weeks then she's on the road again. Was thinking of getting a countach a few years back, but the reports I read was'nt very good regarding reliability so it put me off. Are they reliable motors? What year are you getting.
I'm getting an Anniversary from early 1990. It's only done 1900 miles and is in top condition. There's a lot of crap spewed forth about Lambos, mostly from people who've never actually owned one. I've spoken to several owners and specialists and the news is that a good one is pretty bullet proof. They have their foibles like any car, and they can obviously generate larger bills than something like a Mondeo. But the mechanics are very tough and if looked after will give years of service. Home maintenance is easy enough apparently, if you are used to working on cars. The bigger jobs like valve adjustments, clutch changes etc. are best farmed out to a specialist, but generally they're pretty basic really. A well-respected specialist quoted me £500-£600 plus VAT for an annual service, and around £1500 for a valve service - which is purely mileage based, not time. They use chains rather than belts - which is a big expense on a Ferrari. But I'm buying one because it's the car I've always wanted more than anything else before or since. I'm taking a risk with it but so what, life's too short and you only get one chance to live it. If you come to the meeting in June it'll be there - as long as it's not raining! 
Sounds great, especially with those few miles on her, north scotland and back? Do you have to have a yearly service with the cars even if you only do about 2k a year. The tach's are way in front of their times and I can't imagine them ever dating. You've got me going now over them. Can you still get a good one for around 35k? Otherwise I'll have to send the missus out on night shift.
stingray01 said:
Sounds great, especially with those few miles on her, north scotland and back? Do you have to have a yearly service with the cars even if you only do about 2k a year. The tach's are way in front of their times and I can't imagine them ever dating. You've got me going now over them. Can you still get a good one for around 35k? Otherwise I'll have to send the missus out on night shift.
Infectious aren't they? A yearly service is recommended regardless of mileage. But it's straightforward - basically a good visual check, a few settings, oil/brake fluid/coolant change etc. I have been advised to change the brake fluid annually, coolant would be OK for longer but I'm going to change everything every year anyway. Bad news on the price though - a Countach at £35K will need a huge amount of work - if you could find one. There's not many for sale and the prices are going up very fast now, I've managed to get one just in time, still at well over £35K though, sadly. If you come to the June meeting I'll give you more info if you're interested, such as what I paid for mine. The prices seem to be going up faster than house prices right now. There are some pics of mine on the CCCUK site here: CCCUK Countach thread
That looks the dogs danglers Mike. Inside looks brand new. When I was interested in one, must be all of 12 years ago, I could have got a nice one for 35-40k but as you say they are fast becoming a very rare breed and the prices will rocket up cause of this. Had a look through dealers for one and the nearest I could get to your year and model was into mid 60k with more miles than yours. Hope I can get to the meet, would love to see it.
Jamie
Jamie
Hi Mike,
Cheapest countach I have found for yor year is £63k, a bit out of my price range though, would love to get one. Do you know anyone in my neck of the woods who is good with the old 5.7 vette engines as mine seems to have a flat spot. Could well be something minor but I don't like fiddling with it, might bugger it up. Tickover is spot on. Have the rochesters on it. Bought the car many moons ago from ray at corvette kingdom, but too far to go for check up.
Jamie
Cheapest countach I have found for yor year is £63k, a bit out of my price range though, would love to get one. Do you know anyone in my neck of the woods who is good with the old 5.7 vette engines as mine seems to have a flat spot. Could well be something minor but I don't like fiddling with it, might bugger it up. Tickover is spot on. Have the rochesters on it. Bought the car many moons ago from ray at corvette kingdom, but too far to go for check up.
Jamie
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