help 99, c5 clutch going to floor
Discussion
Hi everyone I have a 99 euro c5 Help I have the dreaded clutch pedal going to the floor, I have read up on this here in the past and corvette forum USA site too, and I did the bleeding of the slave cylinder (what a pain).
All was well for a couple of months (this car is not used all that much this year) I have another newer corvette as well now a 2001 c5 for daily driving
But now the trouble is back again, according to the information I had before the pressure plate was warped during assembly at the plant and the only long term solution is to replace the clutch and slave cylinder for the z06 one ( if GM knows this why don’t they recall the cars and fix it arsh*le$ they are indeed)
I have found an excellent write up on the corvette forum by dope , the write up basically explains how to do the job also I now have the factory book too ( but that seems to talk too much about special tools ) and makes it all seem very complicated
I prefer dopes approach and photos help a lot
So my pride and joy is up on ramps and ready to replace clutch, stripped most of it down this weekend but I admit I will have to buy a transmission jack (the drive line and rear sub frame trans axel looks awful heavy) and a fuel line disconnect tool (for the clutch line quick connector that I just spend the evening trying to split with out the tool) machine mart have a rather expensive but nice looking trans jack and snap on seem to have a 5/8 ford aircon /fuel line disconnect tool that dope recommends.
Next problem I have to source the parts anyone found the cheapest way to get them? Also anyone done this themselves before?
Anyone replaced the master cylinder as well?
And anyone found these tools anywhere else cheaper, the transmission lift was 270 pounds inc vat at machine mart and snap on tool was 54 pounds inc vat
Don’t know what other tools I will need yet, but alignment tool goes without saying and dope recommends a KD tools flywheel locking and turning tool but cant find this in the UK yet might try real steel see if they can help
Any help guidance hints tips, experiences with this problem from others very welcome
Thanks chaps
All was well for a couple of months (this car is not used all that much this year) I have another newer corvette as well now a 2001 c5 for daily driving
But now the trouble is back again, according to the information I had before the pressure plate was warped during assembly at the plant and the only long term solution is to replace the clutch and slave cylinder for the z06 one ( if GM knows this why don’t they recall the cars and fix it arsh*le$ they are indeed)
I have found an excellent write up on the corvette forum by dope , the write up basically explains how to do the job also I now have the factory book too ( but that seems to talk too much about special tools ) and makes it all seem very complicated
I prefer dopes approach and photos help a lot
So my pride and joy is up on ramps and ready to replace clutch, stripped most of it down this weekend but I admit I will have to buy a transmission jack (the drive line and rear sub frame trans axel looks awful heavy) and a fuel line disconnect tool (for the clutch line quick connector that I just spend the evening trying to split with out the tool) machine mart have a rather expensive but nice looking trans jack and snap on seem to have a 5/8 ford aircon /fuel line disconnect tool that dope recommends.
Next problem I have to source the parts anyone found the cheapest way to get them? Also anyone done this themselves before?
Anyone replaced the master cylinder as well?
And anyone found these tools anywhere else cheaper, the transmission lift was 270 pounds inc vat at machine mart and snap on tool was 54 pounds inc vat
Don’t know what other tools I will need yet, but alignment tool goes without saying and dope recommends a KD tools flywheel locking and turning tool but cant find this in the UK yet might try real steel see if they can help
Any help guidance hints tips, experiences with this problem from others very welcome
Thanks chaps
Thanks mate, but this would still involve almost all the hard stripping down of the car to remove the slave cylinder (unless I have miss understood the design) as its an annulus shape with the prop going through the middle of it, what a pain!
Anyway what ever design it is you still need to remove the rear sub frame trans axel assy, prop shaft and trans tunnel to get at it
Also if it’s still going to be a future problem (as I understand the reason it fails is the pressure plate is warped and make the seals fail in the cylinder) it will probably happen again.
The real fix is to remove the underlying fault, which is clutch replacement for the later z06 type.
As most of the hassle is doing the work I really want to just fix it once and for all.
Granted tho the car was ok when I used it everyday but that’s not possible now.
I still need to find those tools to get at the cylinder anyway, but most of all I need a reliable car as its let me down so many times this year with being unable to select gears, its rather embarrassing to be a road block unable to select 1st or reverse gear.
And then having to limp home unable to change gear properly and no doubt doing horrible thing to the gears themselves
I don’t feel confident to take the car out again until I have fixed it properly
Thanks for ideas tho Keith
Anyway what ever design it is you still need to remove the rear sub frame trans axel assy, prop shaft and trans tunnel to get at it
Also if it’s still going to be a future problem (as I understand the reason it fails is the pressure plate is warped and make the seals fail in the cylinder) it will probably happen again.
The real fix is to remove the underlying fault, which is clutch replacement for the later z06 type.
As most of the hassle is doing the work I really want to just fix it once and for all.
Granted tho the car was ok when I used it everyday but that’s not possible now.
I still need to find those tools to get at the cylinder anyway, but most of all I need a reliable car as its let me down so many times this year with being unable to select gears, its rather embarrassing to be a road block unable to select 1st or reverse gear.
And then having to limp home unable to change gear properly and no doubt doing horrible thing to the gears themselves
I don’t feel confident to take the car out again until I have fixed it properly
Thanks for ideas tho Keith
I had clutch problems with my Z06 (heat related) earlier this year and had to replace the master cylinder. It's a piece of cake job to do 
The master cylinder is held in by 2 plastic poppers, just lever the centres out with a screwdriver to release them. The master cylinder joins to the slave (the bit you had to bleed) up on the chassis rail and it's a bayonet connector which clicks together. This is a real p.i.t.a. to get to and difficult to separate, especially on mine as the plastic collar inside the bayonet had melted....
Once this is released, inside the car remove the rod from the top of the clutch pedal by releasing the retaining clip and then push the rod out of the pedal assembly. Once this is released you have to turn the cylinder thru 45 degrees inside the engine bay and then pull to extract it from the car. There is a rubber seal which keeps the water and dirt out of the footwell that needs to be prised off as part of this.
Once removed, the replacement part is less than $200 from Autoway Chevrolet in Tampa (call or email for their phone details). Usually takes about 3 days to get the part shipped from Tampa to the UK.
Replacing the master cylinder is a reverse of removal.
Shouldn't take more than about 2 hours to remove and replace, then you have the fun of bleeding the cylinder again!
The master cylinder is held in by 2 plastic poppers, just lever the centres out with a screwdriver to release them. The master cylinder joins to the slave (the bit you had to bleed) up on the chassis rail and it's a bayonet connector which clicks together. This is a real p.i.t.a. to get to and difficult to separate, especially on mine as the plastic collar inside the bayonet had melted....
Once this is released, inside the car remove the rod from the top of the clutch pedal by releasing the retaining clip and then push the rod out of the pedal assembly. Once this is released you have to turn the cylinder thru 45 degrees inside the engine bay and then pull to extract it from the car. There is a rubber seal which keeps the water and dirt out of the footwell that needs to be prised off as part of this.
Once removed, the replacement part is less than $200 from Autoway Chevrolet in Tampa (call or email for their phone details). Usually takes about 3 days to get the part shipped from Tampa to the UK.
Replacing the master cylinder is a reverse of removal.
Shouldn't take more than about 2 hours to remove and replace, then you have the fun of bleeding the cylinder again!
Is this a trans jack for use at low level, or high level with the car on a proper set of ramps ?
I use this low level trans jack, and its quite good.
www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc.9/category.209/it.A/id.12748/.f
As for the quick release tool. Ive always managed with a screwdriver, so cant really give any reccomendations of a proper tool for that.
Maybe a pair of long nose pointy pliers ? Long, as in about 10-12" overall.
I use this low level trans jack, and its quite good.
www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc.9/category.209/it.A/id.12748/.f
As for the quick release tool. Ive always managed with a screwdriver, so cant really give any reccomendations of a proper tool for that.
Maybe a pair of long nose pointy pliers ? Long, as in about 10-12" overall.
thanks for the info guys , vettehead was the issue with your clutch the same as mine ? pedal on the floor ? i will certainly try the atlanta guys for the parts maybe they know the pn for z06 clutch assy and 04 hydraulics which seems to be the best upgrade for the c5 clutch (corvette forum info)best info i have so far but rather expensive parts
i wonder if i could ask you maybe by private email for a vin so i could order the parts ? if only i could find someone local who has done this upgrade so ican be sure its the right thing to do
however as its really a hydraulic issue , i should fix that first (thought i had done it ok with bleeding it as good for a while) , but if the pressure plate is warped maybe i should swap it to fix it all once and for all and its a lot of work to go in there again.
i wish i had replaced the master cyl now as it sounds easy to replace
Stevieturbo thanks for the trans lift tip , sadly i just went to buy one at machine mart 270 pounds ouch but its a nice peice of kit bit steep price tho
did my back in lifting it out of the car 85kg ,i needed a life to life the lift rats now i wont be doing any work for a while hope to be better by weekend
cheers guys
i wonder if i could ask you maybe by private email for a vin so i could order the parts ? if only i could find someone local who has done this upgrade so ican be sure its the right thing to do
however as its really a hydraulic issue , i should fix that first (thought i had done it ok with bleeding it as good for a while) , but if the pressure plate is warped maybe i should swap it to fix it all once and for all and its a lot of work to go in there again.
i wish i had replaced the master cyl now as it sounds easy to replace
Stevieturbo thanks for the trans lift tip , sadly i just went to buy one at machine mart 270 pounds ouch but its a nice peice of kit bit steep price tho
did my back in lifting it out of the car 85kg ,i needed a life to life the lift rats now i wont be doing any work for a while hope to be better by weekend
cheers guys
yes my tie ping his owfool ike my berk pan , but feeling better now
still need any part numbers for z06 clutch and flywheel kit not much luck with the parts people and what i do get in quoted in the UK is sky high prices
The only half decent price i got was for a LUK kit which includes slave for 560 pounds inc Vat, not bad but i have no experiance with LUK , has anyone tried it ?
i can see in USA z06 clutch flywheel kit $400, slave and master approx $150 each , which = 404 pounds plus shipping say 100 pounds is way cheaper than standard clutch plus slave and master over here = 900 pounds or more
ok i know i will have to pay some tax say worst case 30% whick still = 650 pounds
so i can save at least 250 to 300 pounds.
However the American suppliers are not very helpfull for export sales so far ,i shall post up how it goes.
If anyone has those part numbers for z06 clutch bits and slave/master pls post it
thanks
still need any part numbers for z06 clutch and flywheel kit not much luck with the parts people and what i do get in quoted in the UK is sky high prices
The only half decent price i got was for a LUK kit which includes slave for 560 pounds inc Vat, not bad but i have no experiance with LUK , has anyone tried it ?
i can see in USA z06 clutch flywheel kit $400, slave and master approx $150 each , which = 404 pounds plus shipping say 100 pounds is way cheaper than standard clutch plus slave and master over here = 900 pounds or more
ok i know i will have to pay some tax say worst case 30% whick still = 650 pounds
so i can save at least 250 to 300 pounds.
However the American suppliers are not very helpfull for export sales so far ,i shall post up how it goes.
If anyone has those part numbers for z06 clutch bits and slave/master pls post it
thanks
Ask here.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=2
or here
www.ls1tech.com/forums/index.php?
Ive got stuff from both www.horsepowerengineering.com ( Erik ) and www.ffhp.net ( Scott or Brad )
Both were quite helpful, although Erik was more speedy.
I'm sure one of the many sponsors/vendors will be happy to supply you with what you need, if some guys here cant advise who to get parts from.
Or I'm sure LSV's Holden people could supply you with something ( same clutch etc )
www.lindenspecialvehicles.com/
Or ask over on the HSV/Holden section of this forum. I think the slave cylinder is the same for all cars, and I'm sure the clutch/flywheel is the same.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=2
or here
www.ls1tech.com/forums/index.php?
Ive got stuff from both www.horsepowerengineering.com ( Erik ) and www.ffhp.net ( Scott or Brad )
Both were quite helpful, although Erik was more speedy.
I'm sure one of the many sponsors/vendors will be happy to supply you with what you need, if some guys here cant advise who to get parts from.
Or I'm sure LSV's Holden people could supply you with something ( same clutch etc )
www.lindenspecialvehicles.com/
Or ask over on the HSV/Holden section of this forum. I think the slave cylinder is the same for all cars, and I'm sure the clutch/flywheel is the same.
Contact Ash Vyas at Autoway Chevrolet in Tampa on
001 813 238 8861 ext 353
Ash is brilliant as he will get you the parts asap, takes credit cards and if you mention that I gave you his details then he should also give you a discounted price
I ordered something they had in stock on a Monday it was in my hands on Thursday from Tampa to Gloucestershire.........now that is service!
Tekwiz recently ordered something from Ash and again he received excellent service too.
001 813 238 8861 ext 353
Ash is brilliant as he will get you the parts asap, takes credit cards and if you mention that I gave you his details then he should also give you a discounted price
I ordered something they had in stock on a Monday it was in my hands on Thursday from Tampa to Gloucestershire.........now that is service!
Tekwiz recently ordered something from Ash and again he received excellent service too.
Thanks mate
I will try him tonight , if I can get the Z06 clutch and new slave/master she will be back on the road before xmas.
did check the LUK web site and the kit does NOT seem to come with the slave as i was told but i shall have to confirm this with the parts guy in yeovil , if no slave inc then its not much cheaper than the other places with thier sky high prices.
But the LUK does look like a well sorted kit with flywheel and instructions, even the centering tool, instructions say how to remove and place the balance weights as per the original flywheel.
the more you read the threads the more complicated it gets, some say you need to zero balance it all , some say you offset the balance to copy the original.
others seem to install it try it and if it needs balancing then adding them afterwards through the little removable plastic panel one by one until its ok PHEW
guess i need to find an engine shop here to do some balancing for me maybe to copy the original one, sounds safe option
I was working at the weekend but did look at the slave again , seems to be wet and weeping fluid so i really thing it should be changed
let you know how it goes
cheers
I will try him tonight , if I can get the Z06 clutch and new slave/master she will be back on the road before xmas.
did check the LUK web site and the kit does NOT seem to come with the slave as i was told but i shall have to confirm this with the parts guy in yeovil , if no slave inc then its not much cheaper than the other places with thier sky high prices.
But the LUK does look like a well sorted kit with flywheel and instructions, even the centering tool, instructions say how to remove and place the balance weights as per the original flywheel.
the more you read the threads the more complicated it gets, some say you need to zero balance it all , some say you offset the balance to copy the original.
others seem to install it try it and if it needs balancing then adding them afterwards through the little removable plastic panel one by one until its ok PHEW
guess i need to find an engine shop here to do some balancing for me maybe to copy the original one, sounds safe option
I was working at the weekend but did look at the slave again , seems to be wet and weeping fluid so i really thing it should be changed
let you know how it goes
cheers
If you buy a standard replacement clutch ( or any for that matter ) you shouldnt have to balance anything.
Balancing is not something YOU can do by adding or removing parts. It must be done on a proper balancing machine.
LUK make clutches for various OE applications, and I would have no doubts as to their quality.
Balancing is not something YOU can do by adding or removing parts. It must be done on a proper balancing machine.
LUK make clutches for various OE applications, and I would have no doubts as to their quality.
thanks stevieturbo i did put it up on corvette forum and checked out the websites you mention , these companys seem to be engine/performance cam people, but i guess they could source anything i was only after standard parts, i will try them as the corvette specialist people in usa dont want to know
yes linden might know of someone who could help , i dont know if camaro is the same type of slave arrangement or holden it would be interesting to find out i have had no problem with my camaros so far only the bearings in the diff seeme to be failing on both cars at 50,000 miles ho hum the next job
vettehead thank for the advice i have tried to call Ash at autoway several times tonight but never get through so tried a couple of times to get anyone at all but just get the voicemail system do you have an email address pls ?
regards balancing , i have been reading the threads on corvette forum they say and LUK info agree that sometimes GM use small weights on the flywheel to fine balance the engine so if you replace the flywheel you need to move the weights to the new one
however there is another camp that seem to say that everything is zero balanced and you dont need to move the weights
others seem to take the replacement flywheel and clutch and get it balanced as an assy then fit it, this seems common
and another seems to fit the new flywheel and clutch marking first the positions of the original weights on the new one but dont fit them, then run the engine and if you have a bad vibration then add the weights through the little plastic window on the bell housing (nearside on the front of it)until it stops
maybe linden will know
confusing init
i have phoned and emailed zip products before no luck, called them tonight spoke to helpfull chap who said he would call me back with shipping price
i am still waiting ho hum
yes linden might know of someone who could help , i dont know if camaro is the same type of slave arrangement or holden it would be interesting to find out i have had no problem with my camaros so far only the bearings in the diff seeme to be failing on both cars at 50,000 miles ho hum the next job
vettehead thank for the advice i have tried to call Ash at autoway several times tonight but never get through so tried a couple of times to get anyone at all but just get the voicemail system do you have an email address pls ?
regards balancing , i have been reading the threads on corvette forum they say and LUK info agree that sometimes GM use small weights on the flywheel to fine balance the engine so if you replace the flywheel you need to move the weights to the new one
however there is another camp that seem to say that everything is zero balanced and you dont need to move the weights
others seem to take the replacement flywheel and clutch and get it balanced as an assy then fit it, this seems common
and another seems to fit the new flywheel and clutch marking first the positions of the original weights on the new one but dont fit them, then run the engine and if you have a bad vibration then add the weights through the little plastic window on the bell housing (nearside on the front of it)until it stops
maybe linden will know
confusing init
i have phoned and emailed zip products before no luck, called them tonight spoke to helpfull chap who said he would call me back with shipping price
i am still waiting ho hum
Any of the Vette tuning specialists will be able to supply stock clutch, as well as uprated clutch.
I have 3 LS1 clutches here. Stock 01 LS1, Spec4, and Textralia which is currently on my engine. None have any additional weights on the flywheels. Weight is usually shifted by drilling and removing, although I guess it is possible to add heavy metals if requried too.
I'm pretty sure the Vette slave is the same as any of the 01+ LS1 variants. The older slave is same design, but some suggest it is an inferior unit, so many uprate using the 01+ version.
As for balancing. I'd be fitting any clutch as it is supplied. I wouldnt be messing trying to move weights about.
I have 3 LS1 clutches here. Stock 01 LS1, Spec4, and Textralia which is currently on my engine. None have any additional weights on the flywheels. Weight is usually shifted by drilling and removing, although I guess it is possible to add heavy metals if requried too.
I'm pretty sure the Vette slave is the same as any of the 01+ LS1 variants. The older slave is same design, but some suggest it is an inferior unit, so many uprate using the 01+ version.
As for balancing. I'd be fitting any clutch as it is supplied. I wouldnt be messing trying to move weights about.
Hi again, thanks for the info and advice re balancing sounds like I would be ok either way, there are so many threads on this subject but I guess I shall wait and see if thee are any on my old flywheel.
If none then just fit it
If there are the thinking is to move them over to the new one as this is supposed to be balancing the engine
Some however go with your thought and don’t move them, guess I shall have to make a decision later if I find them.
LUK kit does say to move them across if they are fitted and they should be right, also someone told me that the original equipment one is also really manufactured by LUK , as they had seen a LUK stamp on the plate.
Don’t know if this it true but it could be, maybe I shall just note their positions if fitted and move them over if I get a problem
Has anyone had the assy balanced before fitting at local machine shop? Some people in the USA have done this
Are they paranoid perfectionist? I don’t know
ZIP products did mail me back and I have mailed them again but its all gone quite today so I don’t know what’s happening, if they are shipping or not
I did ask for a price by air and sea, maybe that takes time to work out
Anyone have experience if the customs charges re importing spares??
Any chance of escape by land or sea from the attentions of HMCE
Cheers
If none then just fit it
If there are the thinking is to move them over to the new one as this is supposed to be balancing the engine
Some however go with your thought and don’t move them, guess I shall have to make a decision later if I find them.
LUK kit does say to move them across if they are fitted and they should be right, also someone told me that the original equipment one is also really manufactured by LUK , as they had seen a LUK stamp on the plate.
Don’t know if this it true but it could be, maybe I shall just note their positions if fitted and move them over if I get a problem
Has anyone had the assy balanced before fitting at local machine shop? Some people in the USA have done this
Are they paranoid perfectionist? I don’t know
ZIP products did mail me back and I have mailed them again but its all gone quite today so I don’t know what’s happening, if they are shipping or not
I did ask for a price by air and sea, maybe that takes time to work out
Anyone have experience if the customs charges re importing spares??
Any chance of escape by land or sea from the attentions of HMCE
Cheers
hi chaps
parts now on order from ZIP lets see how much the tax will be or even better if some of them slip through with out paying fat chance eh
next i have to find a good set of pullers to get the pilot bearing out in one peice
anyone done that job ? gather you cant use the old pack it with grease and use a bolt to push it out as i have done in the past
wheres that snap on book gone ,
parts now on order from ZIP lets see how much the tax will be or even better if some of them slip through with out paying fat chance eh
next i have to find a good set of pullers to get the pilot bearing out in one peice
anyone done that job ? gather you cant use the old pack it with grease and use a bolt to push it out as i have done in the past
wheres that snap on book gone ,
Do not try and remove the puller using the grease method.
LS1 cranks are drilled right through the centre. The bearing end is plugged. If you try that, you will probably punch through the plug, which would result in a rather large oil leak.
With most spigot bearings, I'm with the school of thought..if it aint broke, dont fix it.
Although if you have the right tools to remove it, may as well have a go. I dont, so I didnt.
LS1 cranks are drilled right through the centre. The bearing end is plugged. If you try that, you will probably punch through the plug, which would result in a rather large oil leak.
With most spigot bearings, I'm with the school of thought..if it aint broke, dont fix it.
Although if you have the right tools to remove it, may as well have a go. I dont, so I didnt.
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