C5 / C6 owners - a few questions if you have a min - Thanks!
Discussion
Hi,
I'm looking to get a C5 corvette in the next month or two, and have a few (rather mundane) questions!
1. Is it difficult to drive such a wide LHD car on UK roads? I have driven LHD in the UK before but that car was quite small!
2. Can a C5 corvette get over speed bumps (I'm surrounded by them where I live)
3. Are Corvettes susceptible to the chassis rusting?
4. I have already researched some common problems such as steering lock & EBCM module but are there other (costly) jobs to watch out for?
Many thanks for your help!
I'm looking to get a C5 corvette in the next month or two, and have a few (rather mundane) questions!
1. Is it difficult to drive such a wide LHD car on UK roads? I have driven LHD in the UK before but that car was quite small!
2. Can a C5 corvette get over speed bumps (I'm surrounded by them where I live)
3. Are Corvettes susceptible to the chassis rusting?
4. I have already researched some common problems such as steering lock & EBCM module but are there other (costly) jobs to watch out for?
Many thanks for your help!
phn said:
Hi,
I'm looking to get a C5 corvette in the next month or two, and have a few (rather mundane) questions!
1. Is it difficult to drive such a wide LHD car on UK roads? I have driven LHD in the UK before but that car was quite small!
2. Can a C5 corvette get over speed bumps (I'm surrounded by them where I live)
3. Are Corvettes susceptible to the chassis rusting?
4. I have already researched some common problems such as steering lock & EBCM module but are there other (costly) jobs to watch out for?
Many thanks for your help!
Hi I'm looking to get a C5 corvette in the next month or two, and have a few (rather mundane) questions!
1. Is it difficult to drive such a wide LHD car on UK roads? I have driven LHD in the UK before but that car was quite small!
2. Can a C5 corvette get over speed bumps (I'm surrounded by them where I live)
3. Are Corvettes susceptible to the chassis rusting?
4. I have already researched some common problems such as steering lock & EBCM module but are there other (costly) jobs to watch out for?
Many thanks for your help!
My thoughts in response to your questions;
1) Mostly I’ve found it to be a non-issue. The footprint is actually probably about the same as something like a modern 3 or 4 series BMW at a guess - it’s not a small car but looks bigger than it actually is. I wouldn’t say it feels especially at home on the narrower of country roads but you do have a view over the “hood” that gives you a pretty good idea of where it is on the road, if that makes sense. I’d say it’s not so much the 3-ish feet to the left that you sit as much as the amount lower that you are than many cars that can take a little adjusting to, but that can depend on what you’re used to, I guess!
2) With any sort of bumps in the road you need to be slow or it scrapes. There’s a bridge near here that has to be taken at about 15mph max. There’s also a side road that is at a slightly different height where it meets the main road and it isn’t keen on that either if you are carrying any speed as you do. Generally though, if you’re concentrating as you drive and reading the road ahead, I have got on fine with it. The front lowest piece of plastic has rollers and is designed to “move” so at least it isn’t the same as, say, hitting a carbon fibre front splitter!
3) Doesn’t seem a common problem on the C5. The door hinges would benefit from some occasional marine lube or white lithium grease, etc, to stop them getting a bit rough as they move.
4) I’ll answer this as a separate post when I have a bit more time but the main issues differ based on age and transmission type. Biggest one missing from your list is check the battery hasn’t leaked; there’s some important computers under it. For now though, if poss, try to find a 2001 onwards
sayerbloke said:
Hi
My thoughts in response to your questions;
1) Mostly I’ve found it to be a non-issue. The footprint is actually probably about the same as something like a modern 3 or 4 series BMW at a guess - it’s not a small car but looks bigger than it actually is. I wouldn’t say it feels especially at home on the narrower of country roads but you do have a view over the “hood” that gives you a pretty good idea of where it is on the road, if that makes sense. I’d say it’s not so much the 3-ish feet to the left that you sit as much as the amount lower that you are than many cars that can take a little adjusting to, but that can depend on what you’re used to, I guess!
2) With any sort of bumps in the road you need to be slow or it scrapes. There’s a bridge near here that has to be taken at about 15mph max. There’s also a side road that is at a slightly different height where it meets the main road and it isn’t keen on that either if you are carrying any speed as you do. Generally though, if you’re concentrating as you drive and reading the road ahead, I have got on fine with it. The front lowest piece of plastic has rollers and is designed to “move” so at least it isn’t the same as, say, hitting a carbon fibre front splitter!
3) Doesn’t seem a common problem on the C5. The door hinges would benefit from some occasional marine lube or white lithium grease, etc, to stop them getting a bit rough as they move.
4) I’ll answer this as a separate post when I have a bit more time but the main issues differ based on age and transmission type. Biggest one missing from your list is check the battery hasn’t leaked; there’s some important computers under it. For now though, if poss, try to find a 2001 onwards
Thanks for the comprehensive reply - very helpful My thoughts in response to your questions;
1) Mostly I’ve found it to be a non-issue. The footprint is actually probably about the same as something like a modern 3 or 4 series BMW at a guess - it’s not a small car but looks bigger than it actually is. I wouldn’t say it feels especially at home on the narrower of country roads but you do have a view over the “hood” that gives you a pretty good idea of where it is on the road, if that makes sense. I’d say it’s not so much the 3-ish feet to the left that you sit as much as the amount lower that you are than many cars that can take a little adjusting to, but that can depend on what you’re used to, I guess!
2) With any sort of bumps in the road you need to be slow or it scrapes. There’s a bridge near here that has to be taken at about 15mph max. There’s also a side road that is at a slightly different height where it meets the main road and it isn’t keen on that either if you are carrying any speed as you do. Generally though, if you’re concentrating as you drive and reading the road ahead, I have got on fine with it. The front lowest piece of plastic has rollers and is designed to “move” so at least it isn’t the same as, say, hitting a carbon fibre front splitter!
3) Doesn’t seem a common problem on the C5. The door hinges would benefit from some occasional marine lube or white lithium grease, etc, to stop them getting a bit rough as they move.
4) I’ll answer this as a separate post when I have a bit more time but the main issues differ based on age and transmission type. Biggest one missing from your list is check the battery hasn’t leaked; there’s some important computers under it. For now though, if poss, try to find a 2001 onwards
I've always fancied a Corvette and from what I have seen on youtube it seems like they can rack up some big mileages without major issues - providing you find a good one that is!phn said:
Thanks for the comprehensive reply - very helpful I've always fancied a Corvette and from what I have seen on youtube it seems like they can rack up some big mileages without major issues - providing you find a good one that is!
Seeing 6 figure mileages on them isn’t uncommon in the US, they are capable of it if looked after. A lot of the ones over here seem to be good examples, perhaps because they aren’t the obvious choice, usually bought as a toy and therefore cared for correctly. As you say, still important to do your homework though I've always fancied a Corvette and from what I have seen on youtube it seems like they can rack up some big mileages without major issues - providing you find a good one that is!For me, I was in high school when the C5 shape was released and it went pretty much straight to the top of the list of things I wanted to own one day, lol. It stayed on there for the next 20-odd years until circumstances worked out and I was able to fulfill that dream
. Part of the man-maths justification was that it should, hopefully, be fairly depreciation proof! phn said:
Hi,
I'm looking to get a C5 corvette in the next month or two, and have a few (rather mundane) questions!
1. Is it difficult to drive such a wide LHD car on UK roads? I have driven LHD in the UK before but that car was quite small!
2. Can a C5 corvette get over speed bumps (I'm surrounded by them where I live)
3. Are Corvettes susceptible to the chassis rusting?
4. I have already researched some common problems such as steering lock & EBCM module but are there other (costly) jobs to watch out for?
Many thanks for your help!
Hi, nice choice. I'm looking to get a C5 corvette in the next month or two, and have a few (rather mundane) questions!
1. Is it difficult to drive such a wide LHD car on UK roads? I have driven LHD in the UK before but that car was quite small!
2. Can a C5 corvette get over speed bumps (I'm surrounded by them where I live)
3. Are Corvettes susceptible to the chassis rusting?
4. I have already researched some common problems such as steering lock & EBCM module but are there other (costly) jobs to watch out for?
Many thanks for your help!
1. It took me a week of driving it daily before I became used to the road placement on B roads (and not constantly running over cats eyes). Since then I've never had an issue jumping from a lhd to rhd, day to day.
2. Yes, but take it slow to begin with. The front rubber lip will scrape, but it's designed to. These cars are very easy to adjust ride height (assuming it is still on its monoleaf's), so if it's too low a 10mm spanner and a jack can quickly sort that.
3. No, they seem to be remarkably tough at resisting chassis rust. Mine was a californian car, but i've driven it a lot over the last 5 years, in all weathers. There is barely any surface rust on anything underneath.
4. A Clutch lasts ages on these, but that's quite a big job to change, especially as 'whilst you're in there' you will refresh more parts. These are pretty simple cars to work on, with good access under the bonnet, compared to modern turbo hatches anyway.
I bought a low mileage (31k) 2001 C5 Coupe auto 18 months ago. So far, I've sorted the ebcm by just removing it and re soldering connections, replaced a couple of tyre pressure sensors, re soldered the HVAC display unit and replaced the steering position sensor. All these issues I believe are age related and because i chose a 2001 model were easily sorted at very minimal cost. I'm used to driving from the left as I've got a 53 Bel Air, but you certainly notice the very poor left hand side of the road these days. It feels a wide car as you look over the bonnet, but it's roughly the same width as my wife's Seat Ateca, and my previous Lexus LS400, so not too bad. My main issue is that because the doors are very long, I use 2 spaces in a car park as otherwise I'd never get out or in. It's a car you sit in rather than on - unlike my mate's C7 and I find it very comfortable for longer trips. MPG varies depending on how it's driven, but it seems to average about 20 US mpg overall, but 26/7 is acheivable on longer trips. So far I've been impressed with it and it's an easy car to work on. I paid a bit more for it due to condition and mileage, plus it's got aftermarket wheels fitted along with a front and rear spoiler, but I reckon I'd get a similar figure back if i were to sell it. It's the last of the pop up headlight models, so in time they'll appreciate I'm sure. Speed humps can be negotiated with care, but at times I have to approach a change in level at an angle - including my drive. Just ask if you need to ask specifics
Pete
Pete
Edited by plastic orange on Monday 6th March 18:30
Thanks for all the replies! What I can tell for sure already is that Corvette owners are a very friendly and knowledgeable bunch of people!
The replies about changing from RHD to LHD are helpful, and nice to know it's possible to tweak the ride height a bit to clear speed bumps, as I have to clear at least 4 of them to escape to speed bump-less roads from my house, I'm surrounded by the things unfortunately
If anyone knows of a nice C5 for sale, do feel free to message me.
The replies about changing from RHD to LHD are helpful, and nice to know it's possible to tweak the ride height a bit to clear speed bumps, as I have to clear at least 4 of them to escape to speed bump-less roads from my house, I'm surrounded by the things unfortunately
If anyone knows of a nice C5 for sale, do feel free to message me.
Just a couple of additional things to watch out for:
- One of the common failure points is the harmonic balancer. The bonded section gives up and the outer piece of the balancer will either walk backwards into the block or forwards into the steering rack. If you look at the balancer while the engine is running, and it's starting to fail, you'll usually see the outer element wobbling around. Have a look at some videos on YT to get a feel for it. Typical symptoms also include a squeaking noise. If the car you're looking at is suffering from this, budget a fair whack to get it sorted; the parts and tools alone cost around £500, if you want to do it properly, and it's an involved job. One of the easiest ways to do it is to drop the front suspension and subframe to make enough room, for example. And then you get into the potentially costly and problematic situation of changing other bits while you're there...
- Watch out for steering rack leaks. Again, they can be an issue and expensive to sort.
- Power steering pumps can die and they're a bit of a chore to replace, so make sure the one you're looking at is quiet, the fluid is clean, there are no leaks from the nose of the pump, the pulley is running true, etc.
- The clutch hydraulics are a bit of a bear on C5s so make sure the actuation is good, there's no clutch slip, and that the fluid isn't a horrible mess. Similarly, keep an eye out for driveline noise; it could be the bearings in the torque tube failing, and that's another job that can spiral in cost and complexity quickly.
- There are multiple recalls for steering column lock problems on C5s. Most have fitted a bypass so the locking system is inoperable and won't land you in a problematic situation. The LMC5 is a common one, but keep an eye out for any documentation or history relating to that.
I think those are the vital ones, outside of those that have been mentioned – issues resulting from battery leakage on earlier cars, ECBM issues, HVAC problems, active handling problems, rocking seats, etc.
Sounds bad when you outline it like that, but then even the youngest C5 is getting on for two decades old now. Fortunately, the mechanical bits, for the most part, are pretty stout.
Just remember to try everything and make sure it works – and check out the process for pulling the codes from a car, through the driver's information centre, because that'll allow you to find out what is currently (or previously, as historic codes are logged) amiss with the car.
Good luck with your search!
- One of the common failure points is the harmonic balancer. The bonded section gives up and the outer piece of the balancer will either walk backwards into the block or forwards into the steering rack. If you look at the balancer while the engine is running, and it's starting to fail, you'll usually see the outer element wobbling around. Have a look at some videos on YT to get a feel for it. Typical symptoms also include a squeaking noise. If the car you're looking at is suffering from this, budget a fair whack to get it sorted; the parts and tools alone cost around £500, if you want to do it properly, and it's an involved job. One of the easiest ways to do it is to drop the front suspension and subframe to make enough room, for example. And then you get into the potentially costly and problematic situation of changing other bits while you're there...
- Watch out for steering rack leaks. Again, they can be an issue and expensive to sort.
- Power steering pumps can die and they're a bit of a chore to replace, so make sure the one you're looking at is quiet, the fluid is clean, there are no leaks from the nose of the pump, the pulley is running true, etc.
- The clutch hydraulics are a bit of a bear on C5s so make sure the actuation is good, there's no clutch slip, and that the fluid isn't a horrible mess. Similarly, keep an eye out for driveline noise; it could be the bearings in the torque tube failing, and that's another job that can spiral in cost and complexity quickly.
- There are multiple recalls for steering column lock problems on C5s. Most have fitted a bypass so the locking system is inoperable and won't land you in a problematic situation. The LMC5 is a common one, but keep an eye out for any documentation or history relating to that.
I think those are the vital ones, outside of those that have been mentioned – issues resulting from battery leakage on earlier cars, ECBM issues, HVAC problems, active handling problems, rocking seats, etc.
Sounds bad when you outline it like that, but then even the youngest C5 is getting on for two decades old now. Fortunately, the mechanical bits, for the most part, are pretty stout.
Just remember to try everything and make sure it works – and check out the process for pulling the codes from a car, through the driver's information centre, because that'll allow you to find out what is currently (or previously, as historic codes are logged) amiss with the car.
Good luck with your search!
Edited by Lewis Kingston on Wednesday 8th March 12:33
I'll add my thoughts on the above (just to be friendly!). Have owned my 99 C5 for 6 years now:
Left hand drive - I regularly jump between left and right hand drive now with no issues at all. Parking barriers were my only worry but I just avoid them or run around the back of the car to get the ticket!
Scrapes - Mines pretty low and the rubber air dam will scrape on a lot of things but as said it's designed to. I try to avoid multi story car parks because it can bottom out on the top of a ramp if too steep, but as I'm already avoiding car park barriers this isn't an issue. Not the only car I've had do this though so not inherent to a Corvette.
Mechanical issues - I think everyone has covered all the major ones, I've done both the Harmonic Balancer and the clutch in mine, both are big jobs in terms of labour but parts aren't really expensive. The thing with Corvettes is all the issues are well documented on line because of how popular they were in the States. So there's a YouTube video for everything. I have a column lock bypass but not fitted it yet.
There's a really comprehensive buying guide available on the Corvette Club UK forum, you'll need to ask for it but it covers everything and it's a very useful site for knowledge fro both the UK and overseas if you do decide on buying one.
If possible try for a 2000 onwards as their EBCMs are repairable and not as expensive to replace as a result.
Left hand drive - I regularly jump between left and right hand drive now with no issues at all. Parking barriers were my only worry but I just avoid them or run around the back of the car to get the ticket!
Scrapes - Mines pretty low and the rubber air dam will scrape on a lot of things but as said it's designed to. I try to avoid multi story car parks because it can bottom out on the top of a ramp if too steep, but as I'm already avoiding car park barriers this isn't an issue. Not the only car I've had do this though so not inherent to a Corvette.
Mechanical issues - I think everyone has covered all the major ones, I've done both the Harmonic Balancer and the clutch in mine, both are big jobs in terms of labour but parts aren't really expensive. The thing with Corvettes is all the issues are well documented on line because of how popular they were in the States. So there's a YouTube video for everything. I have a column lock bypass but not fitted it yet.
There's a really comprehensive buying guide available on the Corvette Club UK forum, you'll need to ask for it but it covers everything and it's a very useful site for knowledge fro both the UK and overseas if you do decide on buying one.
If possible try for a 2000 onwards as their EBCMs are repairable and not as expensive to replace as a result.
phn said:
Thanks for all the replies! What I can tell for sure already is that Corvette owners are a very friendly and knowledgeable bunch of people!.
Definitely 
.They’re great cars, and attract positive attention from those who see them
Finding the right one can take some time but worth the effort!
I don’t have much to add to the above comprehensive set of replies. I’ve got a 2001 model which has been in the family since 2003 and over that time the main issue has been hvac. Probably spent about £800 in that department so not major considering its age. Clutch and harmonic balancer are the big jobs. Mine has covered 85,000 miles and still not needed but a job I know will pop up.
I see you are based in Norwich. I’m in Wroxham and sometimes have it in the city when my Defender inevitably breaks down! I’d be very happy to show you around it and take you out for a blast.
I see you are based in Norwich. I’m in Wroxham and sometimes have it in the city when my Defender inevitably breaks down! I’d be very happy to show you around it and take you out for a blast.
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