Centerforce clutch on big blocks - collateral damage

[427James]

Hi,

As usual, I come on here when I have broken something. Anyone else using centerforce clutches on c3s?

My old clutch (newish) would burn out when I went to full throttle as it couldn't handle the torque on the BB 1968, so we installed a new Centerforce dual friction one. Now the clutch pedal, which has a connecting link to the clutch actuating shaft welded into it, has snapped that little bar off. The clutch is pretty stiff and the extra force has caused this to snap.

Anyone else running one? How stiff are these things meant to be?

[roscobbc]

James - I installed a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch on mine when I dropped the stroker lump in the car. I was a bit concerned when I first installed it as it did slip a bit initially - it then bedded-in and had been fine for the last 4 years taking all that I throw at it. I did use a new Centerforce steel flywheel. I have a dodgy left ankle and frequently taking the car into central London couldn't cope with a 'heavy' clutch. The clutch is very progressive and lighter in operation than a stock type unit. Sounds as though you have something amiss James. The 'Z' bar pivot points (chassis and engine block) if not greased-up can wear badly. The clutch operating fork can wear I believe if too high pressures are put through it. There is available in the 'States a rose jointed linkage to replace the stock clutch fork to 'Z' bar linkage. It is supposed to give a better 'feel' to the clutch.

[ringram]

If you can afford it try a twin plate. Much lighter and easier in traffic.

[roscobbc]

ts seems though that incorrect adjustment though can cause clutch 'dragging'- there's an awful lot of additional metal rotating around there!

[427James]

roscobbc said:

ts seems though that incorrect adjustment though can cause clutch 'dragging'- there's an awful lot of additional metal rotating around there!

Hmm. I will see if Dart can solve it. I can't have the clutch pedal breaking as a regular occurence!