Garden gym advice

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Discussion

LooneyTunes

7,043 posts

161 months

Friday 21st June
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AF11 said:
LooneyTunes said:
If there’s some MOT1 sub base going down you’re not going to end up with 220mm of concrete. But you probably don’t need it anyway, especially if there’s rebar going in.

16m2 @150mm = 2.6 cubic metres. Based on last week’s invoice that’s cost me £330+ vat on a volumetric delivery for c40.

Pumping that amount (even if it was 4 cube) is a bit of a mickey take unless the land is really awkward. Wouldn’t take long to barrow.

Two sheets of A193 mesh is probably £60-70 + vat?

You’d probably pay a bit more if you don’t have accounts with builders merchants but it looks like there’s a bit of margin being added to the materials you’ve been quoted.
He’s filling only with concrete as far as I’m away, it works out just under 4m3. It was his suggestion to pump it if possible to speed things up.

He’s also using rebar rather than mesh, which I think is different and more expensive.
A193 is rebar mesh… as you’d use in a decent floor slab. Similarly a sub-base would be normal.

The slab I had poured involved 3 lads barrowing 6 cube, albeit only a short distance, in under two hours. Pumping 4 cubic metres seems like overkill and gives you and extra bit of kit to pay for.


bennno

11,951 posts

272 months

Friday 21st June
quotequote all
This has some shocking similarities with the classic runeveryinch of the world's home gym thread.

He ended up in all kinds of mess with planning and buildings reg - being served an enforcement notice once it was largely complete.

OP' you've been told it must be >15m2, it must be under 2.5m high, it must be either 1m from each boundary or made of non combustable materials.

Beyond that £1k for a reinforced slab were the materials cost is at least £600 is fair, it allows for a days work for 2 labourers which is about right for preparing the ground, removing spoils, shuttering, levelling it, removing shuttering etc.


AF11

Original Poster:

268 posts

96 months

Friday 21st June
quotequote all
bennno said:
This has some shocking similarities with the classic runeveryinch of the world's home gym thread.

He ended up in all kinds of mess with planning and buildings reg - being served an enforcement notice once it was largely complete.

OP' you've been told it must be >15m2, it must be under 2.5m high, it must be either 1m from each boundary or made of non combustable materials.

Beyond that £1k for a reinforced slab were the materials cost is at least £600 is fair, it allows for a days work for 2 labourers which is about right for preparing the ground, removing spoils, shuttering, levelling it, removing shuttering etc.
Thanks, I would always ensure it meets regulations before I actually build it, regardless of the grand plans I have in my head beforehand.

As mentioned £1k is just for the actual cost of the concrete and rebar (and pump).

It does not include any labour which is being charged separately.

bennno

11,951 posts

272 months

Friday 21st June
quotequote all
AF11 said:
Thanks, I would always ensure it meets regulations before I actually build it, regardless of the grand plans I have in my head beforehand.

As mentioned £1k is just for the actual cost of the concrete and rebar (and pump).

It does not include any labour which is being charged separately.
its quite cheap pump hire is £300-£400. Materials £400-£600.

How much are they quoting you for labour?

AF11

Original Poster:

268 posts

96 months

Friday 21st June
quotequote all
Around £700. That’s for everything inc removing old decking etc.

Someone else mentioned that a pump isn’t really necessary for such a small amount of concrete, so that could save a bit of money.

ukwill

8,951 posts

210 months

Saturday 22nd June
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Our garden room is 8x4 and sits on ground screws. Have plenty of gym kit in it, inc rack/plates etc

mattvanders

252 posts

29 months

Sunday 23rd June
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Regarding the planing permission and building something between 15m2 and 30m2 and within 1 meter of a boundary and then requiring substantial non combustible materials - it’s very difficult to define what counts as substantial and of what material where.

From what I could see from internet searches, this was the best info I could find on the mater:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/building-regu...

“This is interpreted differently by different authorities. Some read it as "the outer covering of those parts of the walls that are within 1m of the boundary should be non-combustible". Others, unfortunately, treat it as "if any part of the building is within 1m of the boundary then all of it needs to be non-combustible". Others yet only consider the elevation facing the boundary. Some want the entire build up of the wall to be non-combustible (not many, in my experience) where most consider the outermost layer only. I've done any number of sand & cement rendered timber frame buildings hard up to boundaries, for instance. The cementitious fake feather-edge boards have been a godsend in these circumstances, because the authorities around here are quite happy for those to be on the boundary elevation and timber feather edge boarding to be on the others. I have never had anyone even look at the roof. Windows are the most problematic of all, however, and are universally disallowed on the boundary facing elevation ion those circumstances.

So, I'm afraid I can't give you an answer other than to suggest you ring your local Building Control and ask them how they interpret the rules.”

C Lee Farquar

4,081 posts

219 months

Sunday 23rd June
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The price of the pump and concrete will vary according to area. In North Oxon you'd be looking at @ £900 plus VAT for 2.6m3 and a pump.

There is a certain irony in having a pump for a small gym floor smile

AF11

Original Poster:

268 posts

96 months

Monday 24th June
quotequote all
Thanks for all the replies, most of you were spot on with the planning/building regs (not that I doubted it, but as mentioned I would always check it for myself to be sure).

In case anyone reading in future, this is what I was told:

If within 1m of boundary then max height of 2.5m allowed and 15sqm if timber. Can go over 15sqm but have to use non combustable material.

An interesting point is the sqm only applies to the inside space, so you can make the actual structure much bigger in order to insulate walls etc.

Due to the height restriction I am planning on a flat roof rather than sloping. Good or bad idea? How do people cope with water run off?


AF11

Original Poster:

268 posts

96 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
Ended up getting the base sorted for around £1200, mostly concrete.

Now trying to figure out the rough cost of building an approx 15sqm insulated timber room vs buying a ready made one.

Does anyone have a very rough ballpark idea of cost? I'm finding it difficult to work out exactly how much wood/plasterboard/other materials I will need.

In short I need to weigh up the price difference, if it isn't huge then it would be easier just to buy a ready built one.

guitarcarfanatic

1,641 posts

138 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
AF11 said:
Thanks for all the replies, most of you were spot on with the planning/building regs (not that I doubted it, but as mentioned I would always check it for myself to be sure).

In case anyone reading in future, this is what I was told:

If within 1m of boundary then max height of 2.5m allowed and 15sqm if timber. Can go over 15sqm but have to use non combustable material.

An interesting point is the sqm only applies to the inside space, so you can make the actual structure much bigger in order to insulate walls etc.

Due to the height restriction I am planning on a flat roof rather than sloping. Good or bad idea? How do people cope with water run off?
Just to clarify as a few slight inaccuracies within this thread following lots of research and reading up on all the regs...

If building a garden room/shed/office/gym under permitted development rules (in England), it must:

- Not be be forward of the building line.

- Not mean more than 50% of the original garden has been developed.

- Must be used for ancillary use to the house - no accommodation or sleeping.

- If within 2m of the boundary, not exceed 2.5m in height.

- If over 2m from the boundary, not exceed 3m in height (pent roof) or 4m in height (pitched roof) - either way, the eaves cannot exceed 2.5m.

- Also - make sure you have permitted development. Some areas don't and most new build estates have it removed.


As well as permitted development, you must also consider building regs. Namely...

- If under 15sqm internal floor space regardless of location, no building regs to comply with.

- If within 1m from the boundary, and between 15sqm and 30sqm internal floor space, the building must be "substantially non combustible". There is no hard and fast definition to this so engagement with the local building control department is advisable, but it shouldn't need an application. As long as you can demonstrate you met the rules/guidance.

- If over 30sqm internal floor space, regardless of location, a full building control application is needed. This typically needs a proper designed foundation.


Key things to note - you need to satisfy both planning (permitted development) and building regs. The height limits for PD are taking from the highest natural level immediately adjacent to the build so building on a slope = you can go higher. Building regs measurement is taken on internal floor space. Extra rules apply to conservation areas, areas of outstanding natural beauty etc.

guitarcarfanatic

1,641 posts

138 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
AF11 said:
Ended up getting the base sorted for around £1200, mostly concrete.

Now trying to figure out the rough cost of building an approx 15sqm insulated timber room vs buying a ready made one.

Does anyone have a very rough ballpark idea of cost? I'm finding it difficult to work out exactly how much wood/plasterboard/other materials I will need.

In short I need to weigh up the price difference, if it isn't huge then it would be easier just to buy a ready built one.
Definitely build one - check out Oakwood Garden Rooms on Youtube (there is a Facebook Group too). Loads of advice on constructing like an American timber framed house with a hybrid roof design as well.

Buying something and trying to insulate = almost impossible to do a good job.

AF11

Original Poster:

268 posts

96 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
guitarcarfanatic said:
Definitely build one - check out Oakwood Garden Rooms on Youtube (there is a Facebook Group too). Loads of advice on constructing like an American timber framed house with a hybrid roof design as well.

Buying something and trying to insulate = almost impossible to do a good job.
Thanks I'll check out those videos. My preference is to build so I can get the exact size/shape i want (within regs obviously).

If I buy one then it would be an insulated one anyway so that wouldn't be an issue, it's mainly about the cost difference. I am capable of building it and have the tools but it's difficult to work out how much cheaper it would be vs buying a ready one, when you don't know how much it would cost in materials.

ukwill

8,951 posts

210 months

Tuesday
quotequote all
For ref our 8x4 sip panel room cost £23k back in 2018 (turnkey).

4m high apex roof/3.5m bifolds/cedar clad.

However, I think covid caused a marked change in pricing.

I would definitely recommend the sip panel route. Very energy efficient and, to my untrained eye at least, looked relatively simple to put up.