Discussion
wolfracesonic said:
If you mean the gaps round the edges, the only time I did drawers like this with a separate front, I used double sided tape to stick the front to the drawer carcass, slid it around for an equidistant fit, then screwed in from the back for a permanent fix. If the fixed drawer front is not lying flush with the surrounding carcass use some thin shims to correct it.
I had an inkling I should have used a double front, so yours and loughran's posts confirms it. Thanks. Similar to what I made for my Dad, a small urn to retain some ashes for a neighbour who has just lost her husband. They'll spread the rest in the nature reserve but she wants to keep some close at hand, who am I to refuse.
Oak recovered from a 1930/40's fireplace so the same era they were born in. Couple of coats of danish oil.
Oak recovered from a 1930/40's fireplace so the same era they were born in. Couple of coats of danish oil.
crmcatee said:
Similar to what I made for my Dad, a small urn to retain some ashes for a neighbour who has just lost her husband. They'll spread the rest in the nature reserve but she wants to keep some close at hand, who am I to refuse.
Oak recovered from a 1930/40's fireplace so the same era they were born in. Couple of coats of danish oil.
Very nice, what a nice person you are to do that too..Oak recovered from a 1930/40's fireplace so the same era they were born in. Couple of coats of danish oil.
crmcatee said:
Similar to what I made for my Dad, a small urn to retain some ashes for a neighbour who has just lost her husband. They'll spread the rest in the nature reserve but she wants to keep some close at hand, who am I to refuse.
Oak recovered from a 1930/40's fireplace so the same era they were born in. Couple of coats of danish oil.
When I depart this earth, I would like my ashes in something like that. Certainly better than anything shop bought. Oak recovered from a 1930/40's fireplace so the same era they were born in. Couple of coats of danish oil.
I am nearing the end of what I call the TVU.
This has tested me. Ended up completely repainting it as I didn't like the colour. This is actually Wickes matt furniture paint and i0ts much better than the Johnstones Dusty Morning furniture paint which is what I started with.
Got to add a couple of colour coats to one side of the cupboard door and then some touching up on the drawer box. Hoping tom do the bog unveil to family on Saturday. I usually make Mrs B play some John Williams music and use an old sheet for the ceremony. This causes much eye rolling by everyone.
Top panel is an old Oakblock dining table cut to fit and then finished using Danish oil. There is a shelf in the middle that is made of the same stuff. That will be one of the last things I will fit.
This has tested me. Ended up completely repainting it as I didn't like the colour. This is actually Wickes matt furniture paint and i0ts much better than the Johnstones Dusty Morning furniture paint which is what I started with.
Got to add a couple of colour coats to one side of the cupboard door and then some touching up on the drawer box. Hoping tom do the bog unveil to family on Saturday. I usually make Mrs B play some John Williams music and use an old sheet for the ceremony. This causes much eye rolling by everyone.
Top panel is an old Oakblock dining table cut to fit and then finished using Danish oil. There is a shelf in the middle that is made of the same stuff. That will be one of the last things I will fit.
Thought I'd ask here instead of making a new thread.
I've got some planed all-round oak boards and 3 of them are pretty much the same but the 4th is majority a much whiter looking oak than the rest.
I was planning on staining the oak anyway because I wanted the colour a little darker/richer but wondered if its worth trying to "colour match" the whiter board so its closer to the others.
How would I go about doing that and does anyone have any wood stains or varnishes they could recommend?
(The wood is being used indoors for a shelving/wall feature, I was planning to finish it with a matte-like coating so its protected and smooth to the touch but not shiny/glossy).
Cheers
I've got some planed all-round oak boards and 3 of them are pretty much the same but the 4th is majority a much whiter looking oak than the rest.
I was planning on staining the oak anyway because I wanted the colour a little darker/richer but wondered if its worth trying to "colour match" the whiter board so its closer to the others.
How would I go about doing that and does anyone have any wood stains or varnishes they could recommend?
(The wood is being used indoors for a shelving/wall feature, I was planning to finish it with a matte-like coating so its protected and smooth to the touch but not shiny/glossy).
Cheers
bakerstreet said:
I am nearing the end of what I call the TVU.
This has tested me. Ended up completely repainting it as I didn't like the colour. This is actually Wickes matt furniture paint and i0ts much better than the Johnstones Dusty Morning furniture paint which is what I started with.
Got to add a couple of colour coats to one side of the cupboard door and then some touching up on the drawer box. Hoping tom do the bog unveil to family on Saturday. I usually make Mrs B play some John Williams music and use an old sheet for the ceremony. This causes much eye rolling by everyone.
Top panel is an old Oakblock dining table cut to fit and then finished using Danish oil. There is a shelf in the middle that is made of the same stuff. That will be one of the last things I will fit.
Looks excellent, good luck with the unveiling although I'm sure everybody will love it.This has tested me. Ended up completely repainting it as I didn't like the colour. This is actually Wickes matt furniture paint and i0ts much better than the Johnstones Dusty Morning furniture paint which is what I started with.
Got to add a couple of colour coats to one side of the cupboard door and then some touching up on the drawer box. Hoping tom do the bog unveil to family on Saturday. I usually make Mrs B play some John Williams music and use an old sheet for the ceremony. This causes much eye rolling by everyone.
Top panel is an old Oakblock dining table cut to fit and then finished using Danish oil. There is a shelf in the middle that is made of the same stuff. That will be one of the last things I will fit.
I'll be adopting the sheet and John Williams grand reveal on my very next kitchen.
Otispunkmeyer said:
Thought I'd ask here instead of making a new thread.
I've got some planed all-round oak boards and 3 of them are pretty much the same but the 4th is majority a much whiter looking oak than the rest.
I was planning on staining the oak anyway because I wanted the colour a little darker/richer but wondered if its worth trying to "colour match" the whiter board so its closer to the others.
How would I go about doing that and does anyone have any wood stains or varnishes they could recommend?
(The wood is being used indoors for a shelving/wall feature, I was planning to finish it with a matte-like coating so its protected and smooth to the touch but not shiny/glossy).
Cheers
This is tricky to answer. You can certainly attempt to colour match the lighter board but should accept that it's unlikely to ever match the colour of the other 3 boards perfectly. Perhaps you can use the lighter board in a way that the contrast isn't so obvious... or make a feature of the difference in colour between the boards.I've got some planed all-round oak boards and 3 of them are pretty much the same but the 4th is majority a much whiter looking oak than the rest.
I was planning on staining the oak anyway because I wanted the colour a little darker/richer but wondered if its worth trying to "colour match" the whiter board so its closer to the others.
How would I go about doing that and does anyone have any wood stains or varnishes they could recommend?
(The wood is being used indoors for a shelving/wall feature, I was planning to finish it with a matte-like coating so its protected and smooth to the touch but not shiny/glossy).
Cheers
There are a few different types of wood stain. Spirit stains are meths based, water based stains are waterbased, oil based stains which are turps/white spirit based and stains that are a finish and a colour combined into one tinting product like Osmo Polyx Oil Tints.
Personally, I've always preferred oil based stains, especially those made by Colron but due to legislation Colron don't make them anymore.... so that's not an option.
I have little experience with the recent selection of acrylic waterbased stains, perhaps somebody else here has a preferred product.
Bye the bye, it's not always clear what type of stain a stain is from the packaging. The cleaning up/brush washing instructions on the back will give you a clearer idea.
I mentioned my experiences with Rubio Monocoat a few pages back, it's a matt finish and available in a variety of tints/colours. I've only used the Pure (clear), so can't really say how accurate the tints are. It's going to be guesswork though.
Also Sprach Zarathustra when the job's gone well, and maybe this one when it hasn't gone exactly to plan.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vepI_L_FekA
Also Sprach Zarathustra when the job's gone well, and maybe this one when it hasn't gone exactly to plan.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vepI_L_FekA
loughran said:
Looks excellent, good luck with the unveiling although I'm sure everybody will love it.
I'll be adopting the sheet and John Williams grand reveal on my very next kitchen.
You'll need a very big sheet. I've seen your kitchens. Your work looks stunning. Its only doing these projects that I realize how much I respect professional cabinet makers. I'll be adopting the sheet and John Williams grand reveal on my very next kitchen.
My favourites are the Star Wars opening theme and Jurassic Park, but the later doesn't quite have the level of drama required.
I asked Mrs B if she would perform the act of the girl in Bullseye posing with said furniture. Lets just say this was met with resistance!
Fixed cabinet door and hinges to the frame this morning. That needs some work. Will need to re-drill the holes and try and align the door to frame.
Its coming together though.
I'm quite proud of the recess between the cross pieces and the upright on the frame. Turned out as I wanted. Same with the genuine shaker doors. Made using four strips of 18mm MDF with grooves cut down the middle and 9mm MDF slotted in the gap. I explain this to my friends and you can literally watch their eyes glaze over as I describe it. Looking back 12 months, I never thought I would be able to make these doors, so quite pleased with my efforts there.
Edited by bakerstreet on Thursday 4th July 10:14
loughran said:
Otispunkmeyer said:
Thought I'd ask here instead of making a new thread.
I've got some planed all-round oak boards and 3 of them are pretty much the same but the 4th is majority a much whiter looking oak than the rest.
I was planning on staining the oak anyway because I wanted the colour a little darker/richer but wondered if its worth trying to "colour match" the whiter board so its closer to the others.
How would I go about doing that and does anyone have any wood stains or varnishes they could recommend?
(The wood is being used indoors for a shelving/wall feature, I was planning to finish it with a matte-like coating so its protected and smooth to the touch but not shiny/glossy).
Cheers
This is tricky to answer. You can certainly attempt to colour match the lighter board but should accept that it's unlikely to ever match the colour of the other 3 boards perfectly. Perhaps you can use the lighter board in a way that the contrast isn't so obvious... or make a feature of the difference in colour between the boards.I've got some planed all-round oak boards and 3 of them are pretty much the same but the 4th is majority a much whiter looking oak than the rest.
I was planning on staining the oak anyway because I wanted the colour a little darker/richer but wondered if its worth trying to "colour match" the whiter board so its closer to the others.
How would I go about doing that and does anyone have any wood stains or varnishes they could recommend?
(The wood is being used indoors for a shelving/wall feature, I was planning to finish it with a matte-like coating so its protected and smooth to the touch but not shiny/glossy).
Cheers
There are a few different types of wood stain. Spirit stains are meths based, water based stains are waterbased, oil based stains which are turps/white spirit based and stains that are a finish and a colour combined into one tinting product like Osmo Polyx Oil Tints.
Personally, I've always preferred oil based stains, especially those made by Colron but due to legislation Colron don't make them anymore.... so that's not an option.
I have little experience with the recent selection of acrylic waterbased stains, perhaps somebody else here has a preferred product.
Bye the bye, it's not always clear what type of stain a stain is from the packaging. The cleaning up/brush washing instructions on the back will give you a clearer idea.
Installed the drawer today and the alignment is far from perfect, but from 6ft, we are looking good. Cupboard door needs new holes drilling for the hinges so plugged the originals with dowels. Will sand and repaint and try again tomorrow.
Getting my drawer lined over the weekend. I tried to do that once and failed miserably.
Holes at the top on the back panel are to feed cables through. There are holes in the base as well. I don't like holes in the back of media units, so wanted a more elegant solution for this.
I still need to grind off some screw heads in places, but will do that tonight.
Getting my drawer lined over the weekend. I tried to do that once and failed miserably.
Holes at the top on the back panel are to feed cables through. There are holes in the base as well. I don't like holes in the back of media units, so wanted a more elegant solution for this.
I still need to grind off some screw heads in places, but will do that tonight.
loughran said:
Personally, I've always preferred oil based stains, especially those made by Colron but due to legislation Colron don't make them anymore.... so that's not an option.
I'd noticed the Colron American Walnut stain is not as dark as it used to be after one application, perhaps that's because it's not oil based anymore.Speaking of which, your recommendation for the Rustin's Plastic finish worked a treat, the worktop went into the van yesterday, the finish is super tough (4 coats in the end, rubbed back with 120 for the first couple, then 240 subsequently) and complements the brass sink:
Not the best picture but the van is far from being finished so it's just a quick snap. It's cabinets next and so I broke out the veneered MDF, the 12mm wasn't particularly inspiring, but I was very pleased when I looked at the 6mm.....
It seemed almost a shame to cut it.
I’d tell people I did this
Everyone’s got skeletons in the closet and all that!
AJLintern said:
I'd router it out and set in a new strip of wood, then re-cut to suit the new plate.
But in reality I’d almost definitely do this loughran said:
I'd use two pack filler and a small spade.
Or a combination of the two when the new strip didn’t quite fit well enough. Everyone’s got skeletons in the closet and all that!
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