The Range Rover Classic thread

[DonkeyApple]

Yup. I like seeing old Landies out and about but zero interest in having one. The Classic does everything I need while being comfortable and having space for both arms.

[DonkeyApple]

jon-yprpe said:

Rostyles are fine on 235s, and you can go tubeless with the later (common) welded ones. All the alloys are a little wider and are fine with 235s.



18s can be cool as well, esp on the later cars.

I am also a huge fan of the TWR 5 spokes and the LSE/CSK alloys.

Jon, did I see that at the top of Fish Hill a couple of days ago? I caught a flash of an unusual coloured Rangie as I was turning down to Chipping Campden.

[eltax91]

Can’t believe I missed this thread. Pointed here by DonkeyApple.

Here’s my progress thread: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[eltax91]

Paw said:

Hi all, Can anyone recommend somewhere to get some outer sills replaced (both sides).

I have contacted a few places to get some guestimates on pricing, but they want to see it (can under stand but I have yet to buy it) to give a price or have quoted between 1 & 3 weeks (5 -15k).

Thanks

Paw

If you’ve not got this sorted yet, PM me.

[Huntsman]

eltax91 said:

Can’t believe I missed this thread. Pointed here by DonkeyApple.

Here’s my progress thread: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Looking good.

Mine here

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[jon-yprpe]

DonkeyApple said:

jon-yprpe said:

Rostyles are fine on 235s, and you can go tubeless with the later (common) welded ones. All the alloys are a little wider and are fine with 235s.



18s can be cool as well, esp on the later cars.

I am also a huge fan of the TWR 5 spokes and the LSE/CSK alloys.

Jon, did I see that at the top of Fish Hill a couple of days ago? I caught a flash of an unusual coloured Rangie as I was turning down to Chipping Campden.

If last Monday then was me DA, on way back from some work at Twenty Ten. Haven’t seen yours about recently?

[DonkeyApple]

jon-yprpe said:

If last Monday then was me DA, on way back from some work at Twenty Ten. Haven’t seen yours about recently?

Nor have I!!!

Having work done at the new place and left it at a friends for a week. That was three months ago! Was aiming to have it back last week but sunshine and football = no builders, no skip removals and no grab trucks. Mental.

[Filibuster]

HELP !!!!

I have a small problem with my `92 Range Rover Classic 3.9 Automatic and I'm very grateful for any advice.

Yesterday i went through a car wash with the RRC (i know ....). The car drove beautifully when a arrived, but it got soaked a bit.
When vacuuming afterwards I left the ignition on to have the blower help with drying (again, I know ....). When I left the place, the car drove fine but when I stoped for a coffee for 5 minutes, I wouldn't drive properly

It starts fine can revs freely in N or P, also drives off good, but once it hits 2k rpm it stutters until 3k rpm.
When I downshift (kickdown or manually) and it gets beyond 3k rpm, it is almost fine afterwards. This happens regardless of speed or gear.

Yesterday, the rev counter also dropped to 0 when not applying throttle. So I figured it is something electrically and charged the battery (which indeed wasn't full). This morning it was better so I went off and bought a new battery. This unfortunately wasn't the solution.

I was washing the car because someone is viewing the car tomorrow (am selling due to second baby on the way )
Probably it is something rather easy and hopefully it will dry off, but I'm very, very grateful for any advice.

[Gineer]

Sounds like it's the ignition system breaking down under engine load. Water may have got into somewhere, maybe check around the distributor cap, leads and ignition amplifier (though hard to imagine water getting that far under the bonnet), and remove the cap to check for any condensation underneath it after the wash.

Leaving the ignition on may have cooked the coil, worth a check there too.

[Deranged Rover]

The rev counter is fed directly from a dedicated feed from the alternator. The first sign that the alternator was on the way out on my old Classic was the rev counter suddenly dropping to 0.

Consequently, it would be worth checking that this isn’t waterlogged or dying as well.

[RicksAlfas]

Deranged Rover said:

The rev counter is fed directly from a dedicated feed from the alternator. The first sign that the alternator was on the way out on my old Classic was the rev counter suddenly dropping to 0.

Consequently, it would be worth checking that this isn’t waterlogged or dying as well.

I had that. Dismissed it as one of those things. Next trip out, conked out with a flat battery!
But, I don’t think that would give the symptoms described above. Sounds more like an air flow meter or ignition problem which might even sort itself out if it dries out.

[Sparky137]

Deranged Rover said:

The rev counter is fed directly from a dedicated feed from the alternator. The first sign that the alternator was on the way out on my old Classic was the rev counter suddenly dropping to 0.

Consequently, it would be worth checking that this isn’t waterlogged or dying as well.

A slipping fan belt also gives the same symptoms. I had this happen on one of mine. Didn't matter how tight I made it, it still slipped. Cured by replacing the fan belt with a new one.

[DonkeyApple]

It does sound like a bit of an electronics freak out. The bad pick up between 2-3k rpm isn't uncommon on RV8 engines with the flapper system. It feels like the engine when it's in the peak torque area is down to 6 or 7 cylinders.

It can be a raft of reasons from leads, to coil to afm etc. Even the ECU. Might be nothing to do with the car wash and that might just be a coincidence but no harm in pulling the dizzy cap to see whether it is dry etc.

Rev counter going to zero might be the lead coming off the alternator or the alternator having decided it's taking early retirement.

[paintman]

DonkeyApple said:

Rev counter going to zero might be the lead coming off the alternator or the alternator having decided it's taking early retirement.

Or if the rev counter keeps stopping & starting at random possible dirt/corrosion on the terminals.
Recently had that. Cleaned the terminals up with a bit of emery & - so far! - normal service has been resumed.

[Filibuster]

Thanks for all the replies so far! Greatly appreciated!
The one who is viewing has postponed the viewing to tomorrow.

The car is in the garage with the bonnet open and an electric dryer running. I took off the distributor cap, which was dry, just to be sure.

I let everything dry and will try tomorrow morning….

I keep you posted!

[DonkeyApple]

If it persists then it's just a case of working through the usual suspects unfortunately. Easiest starting point being a fresh set of leads.

[Filibuster]

Update:

Just went for a drive. If I use no light and/or hvac it is absolutely fine (slightest (!) hint of a flat spot @2.8k rpm).
When I turn on the light and/or interior blower (a/c is not working today (not blowing at all on III) but was working fine yesterday) I have the same problem as yesterday, although much less.

I think it might be the alternator or the fan belt tension. Maybe it got wet and slipped?

Fan belt has been replaced by my mechanic just last month (200 miles ago).

(Because my mechanic had to get surgery last Friday, I couldn’t go to him. Otherwise I would of course have contacted him already.)

[DonkeyApple]

Filibuster said:

Update:

Just went for a drive. If I use no light and/or hvac it is absolutely fine (slightest (!) hint of a flat spot @2.8k rpm).
When I turn on the light and/or interior blower (a/c is not working today (not blowing at all on III) but was working fine yesterday) I have the same problem as yesterday, although much less.

I think it might be the alternator or the fan belt tension. Maybe it got wet and slipped?

Fan belt has been replaced by my mechanic just last month (200 miles ago).

(Because my mechanic had to get surgery last Friday, I couldn’t go to him. Otherwise I would of course have contacted him already.)

Can you get a meter on the alternator to test its output?

[Filibuster]

13.09 V engine off




14.41 V idle speed no lights, no AC or blower



14.58 V when reving, still no lights, etc.

14.10-20 V idle speed with heater/blower on



14.04 V idle speed with lights and heater/blower



12.93 V idle speed AC (now works again) and lights

[paintman]

It will be a pain in the arse to do but I would suggest disconnecting, blowing out & reconnecting all electrical connectors that you can get at just to make sure that one or more hasn't got water in it.

I too have had the belt slipping-even-when-well-tensioned issue but that all stopped when I dumped the smooth V belt & fitted a toothed V belt.

Edited by paintman on Saturday 29th June 18:45