Anyone used/use Copart??
Discussion
Hi
I have just created an account with Copart.
Tbh, I have looked at the site but I still do not understand it fully.
For example, this lot is being auctioned this week:
https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39137729
There is such little info, can I take it that is does not start, is there a way to get the reg number??
Then there Is the live auction itself, I watched a couple this morning and there is a round timer, within one revolution, if there is no more bids, does it sell for the amount shown? If there is another bid, the timer goes around again?
This is what it looks like. Plus then there is a 'bonus' timer! lol
Is this just to give people more time to bid, hence pushing the prices up?
Lots of questions but easy I guess for those that have purchased from Copart
Cheers
I have just created an account with Copart.
Tbh, I have looked at the site but I still do not understand it fully.
For example, this lot is being auctioned this week:
https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39137729
There is such little info, can I take it that is does not start, is there a way to get the reg number??
Then there Is the live auction itself, I watched a couple this morning and there is a round timer, within one revolution, if there is no more bids, does it sell for the amount shown? If there is another bid, the timer goes around again?
This is what it looks like. Plus then there is a 'bonus' timer! lol
Is this just to give people more time to bid, hence pushing the prices up?
Lots of questions but easy I guess for those that have purchased from Copart
Cheers
I would stay well away from Copart.
They(people using their service?) have often changed the appearance of a smashed up car to make it look like it wasn't too bad.
I had a client ask me what I thought of a Bentayga he bought online, quick search online showed pics from the 'incident' and showed a lot more serious damage under the panels than when he looked.
Can't find the pic of it when it went through but it had all panels on apart from the front bumper and one headlight iirc.
This is what I found..
They(people using their service?) have often changed the appearance of a smashed up car to make it look like it wasn't too bad.
I had a client ask me what I thought of a Bentayga he bought online, quick search online showed pics from the 'incident' and showed a lot more serious damage under the panels than when he looked.
Can't find the pic of it when it went through but it had all panels on apart from the front bumper and one headlight iirc.
This is what I found..
The site has a bit of info on it that's worth readng, including the category definitions etc. On your specific example under "Highlights" it doesnt list run and drive which means they werent able to start it. On the same page as the car listing it says:
"The Highlights section of this page indicates the ‘Run and Drive’ or ‘Engine Start Program’ status of the vehicle. If neither is listed then it should be assumed that we have not been able to start the vehicle."
Some/many cars listed have "additional info" that you have to click on and it will often tell you if the mileage checks out, how many keepers, if its HPI clear it. Here's an example with additional info: https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39284749 . It runs and drives but has a powersteering issue at the very least.
Havent personally bought off them as the only auction site near me is whitburn and it never seems to have anything interesting/cheap/in OK condition enough to take a punt on (and I dont want to bid on something I havent seen).
"The Highlights section of this page indicates the ‘Run and Drive’ or ‘Engine Start Program’ status of the vehicle. If neither is listed then it should be assumed that we have not been able to start the vehicle."
Some/many cars listed have "additional info" that you have to click on and it will often tell you if the mileage checks out, how many keepers, if its HPI clear it. Here's an example with additional info: https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39284749 . It runs and drives but has a powersteering issue at the very least.
Havent personally bought off them as the only auction site near me is whitburn and it never seems to have anything interesting/cheap/in OK condition enough to take a punt on (and I dont want to bid on something I havent seen).
TROOPER88 said:
I just spoke with them on the phone and they were not overly helpful tbh.
I am correct in the way the timer works but to be able to bid, you have to pay an annual fee, I think this is £50
Are they all insurance vehicles?
Most are from insurance direct yesI am correct in the way the timer works but to be able to bid, you have to pay an annual fee, I think this is £50
Are they all insurance vehicles?
Yes, you pay a membership fee
You have no chance of prior viewing\calling\asking questions
Place is packed, and yes, the timer works in the way you think
Searching for the VIN (from the photo on Copart): WP0ZZZ98ZYU600411 on https://isitnicked.com/customer/vehicle_search.php
It says the number plate is: ****JGW
On Copart the pictures show the other half of the reg plate: V978
So reg is V978 JGW
It says the number plate is: ****JGW
On Copart the pictures show the other half of the reg plate: V978
So reg is V978 JGW
mrunderhill said:
Searching for the VIN (from the photo on Copart): WP0ZZZ98ZYU600411 on https://isitnicked.com/customer/vehicle_search.php
It says the number plate is: ****JGW
On Copart the pictures show the other half of the reg plate: V978
So reg is V978 JGW
Thanks but in this specific case the full reg is listed It says the number plate is: ****JGW
On Copart the pictures show the other half of the reg plate: V978
So reg is V978 JGW
I'm just adding a note of interest to this really.
I follow quite a few American you tubers and they seem to be continually buying good Copart cars, it would appear better in organisation and vehicle quality in the US than hear.
Whether Copart help said youtubers cherrypick cars or not you can't be sure but there's been some nice stuff from the likes of Samcrac, Vtuned and B is for Build.
I'm watching a 997 on Copart just now with no real intention of buying just for fun but it would make a great track day car with its dubious history and current damage.
It appears there is a real trend for certain (salvage) companies doing basic work on damaged vehicles such as panel / suspension / wheel replacement not just to get the car rolling but to make it look better than it is then selling it on.
Similarly I've heard horror stories of cars with major mechanical faults "going missing" then turning up after the insurance has paid out on a fully working car. Said broken car then appears as stolen recovered but you are actually taking on a bigger problem.
The Boxster the OP has posted certainly looks a bargain but it looks rough and you can really scout the country and get a leggy running one for sub £2k easily then I'm not sure I see the point, especially if it had head-gasket failure.
Having said that also interested to hear from anyone using Copart!
https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39315729
I follow quite a few American you tubers and they seem to be continually buying good Copart cars, it would appear better in organisation and vehicle quality in the US than hear.
Whether Copart help said youtubers cherrypick cars or not you can't be sure but there's been some nice stuff from the likes of Samcrac, Vtuned and B is for Build.
I'm watching a 997 on Copart just now with no real intention of buying just for fun but it would make a great track day car with its dubious history and current damage.
It appears there is a real trend for certain (salvage) companies doing basic work on damaged vehicles such as panel / suspension / wheel replacement not just to get the car rolling but to make it look better than it is then selling it on.
Similarly I've heard horror stories of cars with major mechanical faults "going missing" then turning up after the insurance has paid out on a fully working car. Said broken car then appears as stolen recovered but you are actually taking on a bigger problem.
The Boxster the OP has posted certainly looks a bargain but it looks rough and you can really scout the country and get a leggy running one for sub £2k easily then I'm not sure I see the point, especially if it had head-gasket failure.
Having said that also interested to hear from anyone using Copart!
https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39315729
Edited by strath44 on Tuesday 25th June 16:02
strath44 said:
I'm just adding a note of interest to this really.
I follow quite a few American you tubers and they seem to be continually buying good Copart cars, it would appear better in organisation and vehicle quality in the US than hear.
Whether Copart help said youtubers cherrypick cars or not you can't be sure but there's been some nice stuff from the likes of Samcrac, Vtuned and B is for Build.
I'm watching a 997 on Copart just now with no real intention of buying just for fun but it would make a great track day car with its dubious history and current damage.
It appears there is a real trend for certain (salvage) companies doing basic work on damaged vehicles such as panel / suspension / wheel replacement not just to get the car rolling but to make it look better than it is then selling it on.
Similarly I've heard horror stories of cars with major mechanical faults "going missing" then turning up after the insurance has paid out on a fully working car. Said broken car then appears as stolen recovered but you are actually taking on a bigger problem.
The Boxster the OP has posted certainly looks a bargain but it looks rough and you can really scout the country and get a leggy running one for sub £2k easily then I'm not sure I see the point, especially if it had head-gasket failure.
Having said that also interested to hear from anyone using Copart!
https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39315729
Great post.I follow quite a few American you tubers and they seem to be continually buying good Copart cars, it would appear better in organisation and vehicle quality in the US than hear.
Whether Copart help said youtubers cherrypick cars or not you can't be sure but there's been some nice stuff from the likes of Samcrac, Vtuned and B is for Build.
I'm watching a 997 on Copart just now with no real intention of buying just for fun but it would make a great track day car with its dubious history and current damage.
It appears there is a real trend for certain (salvage) companies doing basic work on damaged vehicles such as panel / suspension / wheel replacement not just to get the car rolling but to make it look better than it is then selling it on.
Similarly I've heard horror stories of cars with major mechanical faults "going missing" then turning up after the insurance has paid out on a fully working car. Said broken car then appears as stolen recovered but you are actually taking on a bigger problem.
The Boxster the OP has posted certainly looks a bargain but it looks rough and you can really scout the country and get a leggy running one for sub £2k easily then I'm not sure I see the point, especially if it had head-gasket failure.
Having said that also interested to hear from anyone using Copart!
https://www.copart.co.uk/lot/39315729
Edited by strath44 on Tuesday 25th June 16:02
It is actually from watching Samcrac that I first heard of Copart.
The Boxster I listed would break for 1k so it would not be the end of the world if it indeed could not be started.
The fact that it has been vandalised makes me think that it has simply been written off by an insurance company. The car has little vale so this could easily be the case.
I will have a think
Copart in the US will tell you if it is an insurance auction or not. Samcrac will tell you to only consider insurance cars. That's because cars that look like...
Became this in a week and resold
The person that completed this flip made around $20k.
Also, again in the US, the auction fees are insane for a private bidder. Its almost always better to pay a professional a fee to place bids for you. And, in some cases you will have to because you will not be able to bid with out a license. Samcrac is sponsored by Copart so he gets favorable rates. The goonzsquad are making around $1M in you tube videos a year. Profit on the cars is not required.
That leads me to the biggest issue. Due to the interest generated by youtube channels the cars are being sold at artificially high prices. Richrebuilds has driven the price of flooded Teslas up to crazy levels. To the point he has struggled to buy cars to create content.
Became this in a week and resold
The person that completed this flip made around $20k.
Also, again in the US, the auction fees are insane for a private bidder. Its almost always better to pay a professional a fee to place bids for you. And, in some cases you will have to because you will not be able to bid with out a license. Samcrac is sponsored by Copart so he gets favorable rates. The goonzsquad are making around $1M in you tube videos a year. Profit on the cars is not required.
That leads me to the biggest issue. Due to the interest generated by youtube channels the cars are being sold at artificially high prices. Richrebuilds has driven the price of flooded Teslas up to crazy levels. To the point he has struggled to buy cars to create content.
I had a 1961 GMC Apache written off and was offered it as a “buy back” for about £4.5k which I declined due to potentially ruinous recommissioning/repair costs. This I was told was the same price Copart would pay. Less than a week after it was trailered away it appeared on EBay. It was advertised at £14999.00. The salvage dealer had no idea what it was I.e. what it’s spec was. I did tell him everything I knew to help but it was definitely a lot more knackered than his listing was suggesting.
He had paid about £9k for it so basically they were doubling their money. An insurance loss person told me that Copart buy everything they write off for a set fee so sometimes their margins are not that great for instance if a car is flood damaged etc. There was definitely evidence of a fork lift based front end repair though.
He had paid about £9k for it so basically they were doubling their money. An insurance loss person told me that Copart buy everything they write off for a set fee so sometimes their margins are not that great for instance if a car is flood damaged etc. There was definitely evidence of a fork lift based front end repair though.
I think that if I were to pursue it, like with the example I added, I would view it as a parts / breaker and then anything more is a bonus.
Having had a closer look at the Boxster, they have put a pic of the ignition barrel with the outer shroud missing. I have a feeling that the barrel looks damaged thus the reason it will not start / they can not verify the mileage etc.
I did do an MOT check on it though.
Cheers
Having had a closer look at the Boxster, they have put a pic of the ignition barrel with the outer shroud missing. I have a feeling that the barrel looks damaged thus the reason it will not start / they can not verify the mileage etc.
I did do an MOT check on it though.
Cheers
TROOPER88 said:
I think that if I were to pursue it, like with the example I added, I would view it as a parts / breaker and then anything more is a bonus.
Having had a closer look at the Boxster, they have put a pic of the ignition barrel with the outer shroud missing. I have a feeling that the barrel looks damaged thus the reason it will not start / they can not verify the mileage etc.
I did do an MOT check on it though.
Cheers
Had a bit of a more detailed look at that boxster last night, its just a pity the miles aren't a little lower and it would make a great project rather than a probable breaker! You would be hoping new ignition barrel and locks, new roof, service and away you go! Having had a closer look at the Boxster, they have put a pic of the ignition barrel with the outer shroud missing. I have a feeling that the barrel looks damaged thus the reason it will not start / they can not verify the mileage etc.
I did do an MOT check on it though.
Cheers
Boxsters are now over 20 years old in introduction and I'm pretty sure the prices have flat lined, good time to get in the market!
strath44 said:
Had a bit of a more detailed look at that boxster last night, its just a pity the miles aren't a little lower and it would make a great project rather than a probable breaker! You would be hoping new ignition barrel and locks, new roof, service and away you go!
Boxsters are now over 20 years old in introduction and I'm pretty sure the prices have flat lined, good time to get in the market!
This exactly!Boxsters are now over 20 years old in introduction and I'm pretty sure the prices have flat lined, good time to get in the market!
A second hand roof is cheap.
The same with a second hand lock set, I am unsure if the ignition barrel can simply be swapped or if there is an element of programming required?
It does need tyres
If any of you fancy trying your hand at a bit of Goozquad, SamCrac, LNC action, I thought I'd share my personal experience when buying Cars from USA on Copart.com and then importing to UK:
1. As previously mentioned, only buy it if it shows the seller's name as an insurance company.
They don't mess around prettying them up, they just get shot of them once they've established it's a total loss.
It's pretty common for non-insurance sales to have been tarted/fixed up.
2. You can pay ~$40 for a vehicle inspection before you buy. I've done this 3 times.
It is basically a walk around video and if you're lucky you'll catch a glimpse of something the pictures didn't. You can't request specifics.
If the car is a 'Run and Drive', they will simply move it forwards and backwards in the yard to show it moves under it's own power. If the car is in a queue they'll simple move 50cm forward, 1m back, 50cm forward.
3. Make sure it has a Title. There's almost no way to export a US car without a title, even if you chop it into parts to ship it.
The USA export teams have been known to google the VIN to see if what you're shipping matches what you bought.
Storage fees at Copart and Dockside are crazy high, so you want to make sure that car won't get stuck in a paperwork exercise.
4. Shipping across USA is super expensive, so buy a car in California or New York.
The cars in California are so much better and worth the extra $400 shipping cost. The East coast cars can be rustier than UK due to the mileage they pile on them.
5. You can get some great bargains on parts cars and you may be able to rebuild them, but take that as a bonus when it shows up.
If you want something truly unique from USA, this is a great way to do it.
A good shipping company will ship any spare parts (you source) with the car in the container, which is surprisingly cheap.
6. Buyers fees are easy to find online, but you generally pay;
Buyer fee: Around 5%. Minimum $200
Virtual Bid Fee: Around 5%. Min $35, Max $200 i believe.
Gate Fee: $59
Title Mailing fee: $20
If anybody wants help, send me a message and i'll give more detailed advice.
Ian
1. As previously mentioned, only buy it if it shows the seller's name as an insurance company.
They don't mess around prettying them up, they just get shot of them once they've established it's a total loss.
It's pretty common for non-insurance sales to have been tarted/fixed up.
2. You can pay ~$40 for a vehicle inspection before you buy. I've done this 3 times.
It is basically a walk around video and if you're lucky you'll catch a glimpse of something the pictures didn't. You can't request specifics.
If the car is a 'Run and Drive', they will simply move it forwards and backwards in the yard to show it moves under it's own power. If the car is in a queue they'll simple move 50cm forward, 1m back, 50cm forward.
3. Make sure it has a Title. There's almost no way to export a US car without a title, even if you chop it into parts to ship it.
The USA export teams have been known to google the VIN to see if what you're shipping matches what you bought.
Storage fees at Copart and Dockside are crazy high, so you want to make sure that car won't get stuck in a paperwork exercise.
4. Shipping across USA is super expensive, so buy a car in California or New York.
The cars in California are so much better and worth the extra $400 shipping cost. The East coast cars can be rustier than UK due to the mileage they pile on them.
5. You can get some great bargains on parts cars and you may be able to rebuild them, but take that as a bonus when it shows up.
If you want something truly unique from USA, this is a great way to do it.
A good shipping company will ship any spare parts (you source) with the car in the container, which is surprisingly cheap.
6. Buyers fees are easy to find online, but you generally pay;
Buyer fee: Around 5%. Minimum $200
Virtual Bid Fee: Around 5%. Min $35, Max $200 i believe.
Gate Fee: $59
Title Mailing fee: $20
If anybody wants help, send me a message and i'll give more detailed advice.
Ian
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